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John Rice HAVANA CUBA July 16-19, 2017 The last Americans to travel independently to Havana Cuba? The   alarm   is   set   for   3AM   and   the   bags   are   packed   including   toilet   paper,   half   a   dozen   cans   of   tuna,   pencils   and   crayons   for   the   kids   plus   a   good   supply   of   fishing   hooks   as   we   hear   they   are   hard   to   get   in   Cuba.      It   is   funny as   it   is   a   short   1   hour   and   15   minute   flight   from   Tampa   on   Southwest   and   we   even   get   free   luggage   but   it   seems   like   a   world   away.      We   have   been   waiting   for   this   opportunity   for   30   years   and   certainly   since   the   Obama administration   opened   independent   travel   to   Cuba   but   we   had   been   too   busy   to   get   away   until   now.      We   are   excited   and   apprehensive   as   we   will   be   in   a   formerly   forbidden   destination   for   Americans   at   8:15   AM tomorrow morning. When   they   announced   they   were   changing   the   rules   and   eliminating   independent   travel,   we   had   one   last   chance   to   just   go   wander   around   and   this   trip   was   planned   the   same   day.      I heard   Rick   Steves   comment   that   people   who   travel   to   Cuba   will   be   divided   into   two   groups,   those   that   were   there   while   a   Castro   was   in   power   and   those   who   waited   for   the   post   Castro era but by then everything will change.  We wanted to go while Cuba was still Cuba in all its original form.  Planning   was   relatively   easy   and   the   airline   tickets   were   cheap   from Tampa   and   our   $75   Cuban   visas   were   purchased   locally   in Tampa.     We   were   able   to   secure   an   apartment   in   Havana near   the   Capital   about   two   blocks   from   the   Prado.     We   have   been   in   communication   with   the   caretaker   of   the   apartment   who   introduced   us   to   a   couple   of   cousins   that   drive   the   same   taxi so   we   have   a   pre-arranged   ride   from   the   airport.      Because   of   the   US   Embargo   and   restrictions   by   the   Cuban   government,   everything   else   is   complicated.      We   have   Paladar   (private restaurant)   reservations   at   two   of   the   best   in   Havana   but   even   that   was   a   complicated   process.      The   first   we   used   Facebook   messenger   but   that   came   back   with   a   note   to   email   a   Spain email   address.     That   worked   and   reservation   number   one   was   done.     The   other   is   one   of   the   trendiest   Paladar’s   in   central   Havana   and   there   was   an   email   on   the   webpage.      No   response   a week   later   so   we   tried   calling   one   night.      We   found   later   webpage   administration   was   hard   with   the   Cuban   system   using   only   public   wi-fi   so   many   of   the   web   and   Facebook   pages   are administered   out   of   the   country.      The   Paladar   had   six   phone   numbers   but   the   first   five   did   not   work.      On   the   last   one,   we   reached   the   restaurant   and   they   put   an   English   speaking   waiter on the phone so we are all set. The   FAQs   from   OFAC   were   pretty   clear   that   nothing   changed   simply   because   of   the   announcement.      We   are   traveling   under   the   existing   OFAC   regulations   until   the   new   rules   can   be written.      The   existing   US   rules   for   Cuban   travel   are   pretty   straightforward.      There   are   twelve   reasons   under   the   “general   license”   for   travel   including   a   “people   to   people”   provision.     You   check   that   (or   another   that   you   qualify   for)   and   sign   an   affidavit   with   the   airline   swearing   you   are   traveling   under   that   provision.      As   an   independent   people   to   people   passenger, you   have   to   have   a   plan   and   we   have   a   pretty   full   schedule   that   includes   a   walking   tour   of   old   Havana,   a   visit   to   the   Afro   Cuban   neighborhood,   visiting   artists   on   the   Prado, Hemingway’s   House   and   Fursterlandia   on   our   way   to   the   airport.      Tuesday   we’ll   be   going   to   Las   Terrazas   to   get   out   of   Havana   for   the   day   and   see   the   countryside.      This   is   about   an hour   and   a   half   into Artemesia   province   of   Cuba   and   the   area   is   Unesco   Biophere   reserve.      I   have   entitled   this   blog   the   last Americans   to   travel   Independently   to   Cuba   as   we   expect   what we   are   doing   will   be   outlawed   by   the   US   Government   upon   our   return.     After   that   point,   you   will   have   to   travel   on   an   organized   group   people   to   people   tour   or   a   shore   excursion   off   the   cruise   ship.     As   an   agency,   we   are honestly confused about the new rules as they seem contradictory from first read.  If you want to encourage entrepreneurs in Cuba, why would you outlaw independent travel by Americans?
Havana Cuba - The smell of cigars, antique cars and the sound of guitars. As   I   sit   down   on   a   rainy   Sunday   afternoon   upon   our   return,   to   write   about   our   trip   to   Havana   and Las   Terrazas,   Cuba   the   first   word   that   comes   to   mind   is   WOW.      As   an   American,   30   years   of preconceptions   have   been   blown   away   during   the   last   week.      The   Cuban   system   seems   to   work for   most   of   Cuba’s   working   class   and   there   is   a   growing   entrepreneurial   sector   since   The   Cuban government   began   to   allow   some   private   business   in   certain   areas   of   the   economy.      In   Havana Vieja,   Habaguanex   (affiliated   with The   City   Historians   Office)   has   revitalized   487   buildings   plus they   are   generating   cash   flow   for   future   restorations   with   the   innovative   bars   and   restaurants they   have   developed.      They   generated   5   million   in   annual   revenues   in   1995,   40   million   in   2000 and   almost   200   million   in   2015   towards   the   preservation   projects.      In   my   research   for   this   trip and   blog,   one   Cuban   economist   explained   “you   have   to   compare   us   to   Haiti,   Jamaica   or   Mexico when   you   speak   of   economic   development   and   you   have   to   imagine   where   we   might   be   without the US Embargo.”  Lastly,   the   Cuban   people   were   very   nice   to   us   everywhere   we   went   and   prices   still   seemed relatively   cheap   even   in   the   CUC   tourist   economy.      We   did   not   see   any   visible   signs   of   protest and   no   one   voiced   dissent,   even   in   private.      We   were   careful   not   to   discuss   domestic   Cuban politics   as   we   are   fully   aware   that   this   is   a   socialist   military   government   that   has   pretty   tight controls   about   political   discussion.      Police   protection   was   tight   in   public   areas   and   as   a   result,   we felt   very   safe   as   tourists.     As   a   Cuban   in   the   travel   industry   told   me,   just   enjoy   Cuba;   don’t   try   to change Cuba and you will have a great time.  He was right. Southwest   is   on   time   and   the   captain   announces   58   minutes   flight   time   from   Tampa,   luggage   is FREE   and   we   are   wings   up   at   about   7:15   AM.      All   the   little   Cuban/American   girls   had   one   or two   dolls   for   cousins   and   strangely   some   men   were   wearing   stacks   of   4   or   6   hats   at   the   airport.     We   learned   later   they   don’t   make   many   hats   in   Cuba   so   Gina   scratched   that   one   off   the   shopping list.     The   passengers   were   90%   Cuban Americans   and   10%   tourists.     The   Cubans   all   cheered   and clapped   when   the   aircraft   touched   down   but   we   have   experienced   that   in   other   Caribbean   nations before.      We   discussed   carry   on   the   next   time   as   luggage   took   almost   1.5   hours   to   get   at   Jose Marti.      To   be   fair   we   saw   a   lot   of   shrink   wrapped   cargo   like   bags   so   I   imagine   every   Cuban American had 2 bags given all the things they need on the island. 
Day 1 Arrival in Centro Havana Our   driver   had   changed   and   it   seemed   everything   was   in   a   little   flux   as   the   Cubans   juggled   all   their   jobs.      Daniel   and   Jenny   were   waiting   for   us,   even   with   the   delay,   but   we   had to   hurry   as   they   had   to   go   back   to   the   airport.      We   were   riding   in   an   older   58   Bellaire   that   we   found   out   later   was   Daniel’s   baby   as   he   purchased   it   when   he   sold   his   mother’s house   in   Santa   Clara.      She   was   old   (the   Chevy)   and   shuddered   when   we   got   to   first   gear,   but   still   ran   pretty   good.     All   of   these   50’s   cars   are   belching   exhaust   so   that   is   another smell   that   I   remember   from   the   streets.      It   was   about   half   an   hour   from   the   airport   to   our   apartment   in   Central   Havana.      Starting   from   the   airport,   we   felt   kind   of   like   celebrities as they had not met many Americans. The   caretaker   had   called   two   weeks   ago   to   say   the   apartment   elevator   was being   replaced.      Even   on   a   90   degree   day   this   seemed   to   be   a   mixed   blessing to   the   apartment’s   inhabitants   as   the   elevator   had   not   worked   well   for   years.           Many   of   the   Cuban   tour   packages   require   45   days   in   advance.      We   had   done an   Airbnb   as   we   were   only   booking   a   month   before.      Our   apartment   building was   newer   but   looked   like   some   60s   Soviet   bleak   concrete   design.      It   had   a big   metal   gate   downstairs   and   a   narrow   stairwell   that   wrapped   around   the open   elevator   pit.     They   had   removed   the   doors   but   propped   one   up   so   you   did not   fall   in   at   each   landing.      We   had   wanted   to   learn   about   Havana   and   live   in Central   Havana   with   the   Cubans   and   we   were   not   disappointed.      School supplies   were   packed   separately   so   those   were   debagged   to   make   the   bag lighter   for   the   five   flights   of   stairs.     Yamile   was   waiting   at   the   door   downstairs as   everyone   has   a   cell   phone   so   she   had   called   the   taxi.      Her   husband   came down   and   grabbed   Gina’s   bag   and   she   even   took   mine   away   half   way   up   as she   was   used   to   the   steps   and   we   live   on   one   floor   at   sea   level.      They   lived across   the   hall   from   our   apartment.      We   met   her   abuela   (grandmother)   who was the sweetest lady and her daughter was also very nice.  We   are   pretty   adventurous   but   sometimes   apartment   rental   and   other   ‘ad-hoc’ accommodations   are   not   always   as   reliable   as   a   hotel   reservation   (especially in   the   3rd   world)   but   this   one   was   very   nice.      We   got   very   lucky   with   the apartment   judging   from   some   of   the   other   Airbnb   type   accommodations   we went   past   but   we   paid   more   than   average.      Inside   the   apartment   was   fantastic with   a   good   air   conditioning   unit   and   a   balcony.      Water   pressure   was   sketchy but   other   than   that   we   had   no   problem.      The   apartment   allowed   us   to   solve many   problems,   since   we   had   local   help.      We   had   some   language   problems   as we   know   some   conversational   Spanish   but   are   certainly   not   fluent.      Yamile   at the   apartment   was   not   fluent   in   English   but   we   were   able   to   communicate.     She   had   a   nephew   who   was   a   tour   guide   so   we   talked   on   the   phone   and   solved   all   my   problems   when   we   first   arrived   at the   apartment   by   acting   as   a   translator   over   the   telephone   and   providing   advice.      We   had   a   pretty   good   people   to   people plan with a little work thrown in and the Cubans implemented the plan beautifully. In   a   coincidence,   the   apartment   caretaker   was   the   administrator   of   a   school   and   she   needed   the   supplies   we   brought   for her   school.      She   was   excited   about   crayons   for   the   preschoolers.      We   had   them   all   pre-packed   in   a   cheap   carry-on   bag   so we   gave   her   the   whole   bag.      We   had   also   brought   a   keepsake   picture   of   the   Jose   Marti   statue   in   Tampa   that   had   info   on Ybor   City.      She   was   going   to   take   that   to   her   office   at   the   school   as   Marti   is everywhere.      She   is   going   to   reconfirm   our   ride   to   Las   Terrazas   on   Tuesday and   also   a   taxi   for   a   couple   of   hours   on   our   way   to   the   airport.      Before   we head   out,   she   comes   back   and   asks   us   to   autograph   the   picture   as   she   is   going to   hang   it   in   her   school   office.      Jose   Marti   is   everywhere   in   Cuba.      He   came   to Tampa   20   times   between   1891   and   1894   as   they   prepared   for   the   Spanish War of Independence so Tampa and Cuba have always had ties. We   went   out   on   the   balcony   and   we   could   even   see   a   sliver   of   the   Caribbean Sea   along   the   Malecon   but   we   were   still   shocked   when   we   looked   at   the outside   condition   of   the   buildings   as   Centro   Habana   is   pretty   run   down.      I   had heard   this   before   arriving   but   was   still   surprised   at   the   effect   of   the   embargo,   the   salt   air   and   old   age   has   had   on   this   once   beautiful   Caribbean   capitol   city.      I   could   only   think that   a   lot   of   lumber,   plywood   and   concrete   could   come   out   of   Port Tampa   if   we   could   move   goods   and   people,   freely,   it   would   help   our   Florida   economy.     America   could   make a fortune in toilet seats alone. We   head   out   to   get   CUCs   and   we   are   told   we   can   go   to any   hotel.      Hotel   Ingleterre   is   on   the   corner.      They   are friendly;   even   though   we   are   not   a   guest   of   the   hotel and   the   money   exchange   is   a   quick   process.      If   you   are traveling   with   US   dollars,   you   only   end   up   with   about 87   cents   on   the   dollar   because   of   the   “penalty”   rate charged   by   the   Cubans   to   compensate   for   the   effect   of the    embargo.        Europeans    and    Canadians    are    only charged   about   3%.      I   always   thought   Raul   could   have at   least   gone   to   1   to   1   to   reward   Obama   as   a   minor concession   for   partially   lifting   the   tourism   rules   for people   to   people   travel.   I   realize   after   my   trip   that   the resolve   of   the   Government   not   to   change   the   system too   much,   too   quickly   plus   there   is   a   great   deal   of anger   and   hard   feelings   about   how   our   government   has   treated   the   Cuban   people   for   55   years   but   surprisingly   no   one   is   angry   at   the   American   people.      After   four   days   in Havana, I am more convinced than ever that we are not going to change Cuba through the embargo. We   head   out   into   the   bright   sunshine   to   Jose   Marti   Boulevard   or   The   Prado   as   it   is   still   called   from   Spanish   days.      The   first   thing   we   learned   from   these   artists   is   the   Embargo affects   everything.     They   all   have   to   make   art   paper   from   recycled   paper.      Juan   Gonzalez   makes   paper   mache   boxes   and   even   furniture,   Isabel   Carles   painted   beautiful   fish   and Marta   Gonzalez   “Maytego”   did   wood   block   printing.      One   guy   was   painting   inside   Coke   bottles   with   a   tiny   brush.      We   got   to   discuss   art   in   general   in   Cuba   as   everyone   was very   literate   and   eager   to   have   an   exchange   with   the American   travel   agents   who   write   a   blog.      We   saw   a   Cuban   clown   entertaining   the   children.      I did   not   understand   much   of   what   he   told   the   kids   but   they   were   hanging   on   every   word,   laughing   and   singing   along.      It   is   only   the   first   morning   but we see everybody out with kids as parents seem to cherish spending time with their children in Cuba. We   ask   about   Callejon   de   Hamel   and   pointed   in   the   direction   by   the   artists.     As   we   cross   the   street   a   cool   lemon   yellow   Chevy   Impala   ragtop   turns the   corner.     A   ride   in   one   of   these   old   birds   is   always   at   least   $10   or   $20   CUC.     We   are   quoted   $20   because   of   the   distance.      Sr.   Quiala   owns   this   car and   he   has   one   of   our   favorites   Bob   Marley   on   the   CD   player   as   we   turn   around   on   the   Prado.      We   notice   he   turns   the   volume   way   down   when   we pull   up   next   to   the   police   car   but   we   crank   Bob   up   again   as   this   majestic   piece   of   chrome   and   steel   cranks   up   to   speed   on   the   Malecon.      He   loves Bob   so   he   pulls   up   a   couple   more   of   his   favorites   as   we   all   sing   along.      The   Chevy   has   a   little   metal   box   with   5   or   6   different   sized   buttons   and   we soon   realizes   besides   Bob,   we   get   a   horn   concert   as   he   hails   up   friends   or   approaches   an   intersection.      Each   button   is   attached   to   a   horn   of   a different pitch so he can literally play music after all these years. Callejon   de   Hamel   is   the Afro   Cuban/Santoria   neighborhood   and   they   do   a   rumba   like   show   time   on   Sundays.      It   is   packed,   hot   and   like   the   guidebook   says,   kind   of   touristy.     There   is   a   small   amount   of   artwork,   a   couple   of   bar/restaurants.      The   stage   where   the   show   goes   on   is   packed   6   deep   with   tourists   so   we   are   only   there   about   a   half   hour.      We do   buy   a   couple   of   cheap   $5   CDs   from   Kiki   who   is   a   music   teacher.      The   neighborhood   has   a   primary   school   that   is   supported   by   the   tourists   and   the   CDs   support   the   music school.         If   you   will   listen,   they   are   eager   to   show   you   the   community   projects   like   schools   that   are   paired   with   tourism   projects.      It is   not   even   noon   yet   and   we   are   starting   to   realize   that   community   and   neighbors   seem   to   be   part   of   the   social   experiment   they   are proud   to   tell   the Americans.      Remember   as   an   agent,   I   have   not   advised   anybody   in   Havana   that   I   was   arriving   and   we   are   moving among   the   local   population   as   we   try   to   do   when   we   really   want   to   learn   about   a   place.      We   head   off   walking   to   the   Malecon   and eventually across Central Havana which was part of today’s plan. It   is   every   bit   as   hot   as   Florida   and   we   should   have   done   lunch   before   heading   off   across   Central   Habana.      There   are   a   couple   of   small   private   “tent”   restaurants   on   the Malecon,   but   they   are   mostly   ham   sandwiches   or   things   that   are   getting   going   for   later   as   the   charcoal   has   not   yet   been   lit.      We   make   a   right   turn   and   head   across   Central Havana   and   it   looks   a   little   like   a   bombed   out   war   zone.     There   are   a   couple   of   streets   closed   because   of   total   restoration   including   the   streets   and   then   we   get   into   where   people actually   live.      We   walk   another   six   blocks   without   seeing   an   acceptable   restaurant.      The   young   Europeans   get   pesos   and   CUC   and   eat   ham   sandwiches   but   we   have   agreed   we did not want to get down to that level with food because of food handling practices. We   reach   a   pedestrian   palisade   and   turn   towards   the   Prado.      We   see   a   restaurant   conductor   and   she   advertises   it   is   air   conditioned   upstairs.     They   had   a   price   fix   menu   with   a   rum   drink,   entrée,   salad,   lemonade,   coffee   and   desert   for   $15   so   we   head   upstairs.      It   was   a   decent   chicken dinner   but   the   price   fix   menu   was   not   really   true   it   was   a   $5   plate   of chicken   with   rice   and   slaw.     This   was   our   first   hustle   of   the   trip   as   it   was more   a   tiny   bar   than   a   restaurant   and   they   did   not   offer   some   of   the items   and   courses.     Then   the   waitress   asked   if   we   wanted   a   mojito   so   we went   along.      Later   it   was   announced   that   the   mojito   was   not   included   in the    “free”    rum    drinks.        We    suggested    since    you    did    not    serve    the lemonade,   coffee   or   dessert,   we   certainly   are   not   paying   for   the   mojitos as   you   said   you   included   a   rum   drink.   Plus   the   lady   did   not   say   they were   extra   when   she   suggested   them.      They   finally   agreed   but   the   check came   with   the   2   mojitos   showing   $7   and   we   firmly   had   them   take   them off   the   bill.      We   laughed   as   we   hit   the   street   as   it   was   overpriced,   but good   food   and   we   probably   would   have   paid   $15   for   an   hour   of   a/c   on   a 90+ degree day in Central Havana. As   we   walked   back   to   Havana   Vieja,   we   surmised   that   would   be   enough   for   folks   if   they   want   a   couple   of   days   to   Havana.      Centro   Havana was   pretty   bleak   past   our   apartment   unless   you   have   a   specific   place   you   are   heading.      With   the   redevelopment,   the   Havana   Vieja   has   a   nice vibe   with   music   everywhere   amongst   the   t-shirt   shops   and   local   neighborhoods   scattered   throughout   the   quarter.         We   went   into   Gale   da   Manos   on   Obispo   #411   with   Artesania   Cubana.      Gina   got   a   nice   lined   hand crocheted   purse   for   $10   CUC.      It   was   hand   made   by Ana   Iris   Pena   and   is   very   nice.     All   of   the   art   products   seemed   to   be   inexpensive   and   genuine   compared   to   other   islands.     We   noticed   a   shady   park   with   an   open   air   bar next   door   called   Ruinas   Del   Parque.     They   had   a   pretty   good   band   called   San   Miguel   with   fathers   and   sons   and   a   dread   playing Trombone   plus   2   guitars,   2   percussion   players   and   a   great   singer.      It   was   your   typical   tourist scene   but   the   band   was   great   and   it   was   a   good   time   in   the   day   just   to   cool   out.      Beers   were   about   $3.50   and   a   Limeade   was   $2.      The   basket   always   get   passed   around   for   the   band   so   collect   your   $1   CUC   coins   as   small change can be scarce.  That   evening,   I   had   a   reservation   at   Dona   Eutemia   which   was   one   of   the   first   Paladars   in   Havana   Vieja.      It   is   located   in   an   alley   off   the   Plaza   Catedral.      This   is   traditional   Cuban   food   plain   and   simple.      We   had   shrimp that   had   a   hint   of   Catalonia   in   Spain   with   cooked   garlic.      It   came   with   a   great   cold   salad   plate   with   lettuce   and   cabbage,   blanched   green   beans,   cucumbers   and   tomatoes.      They   also   brought   out   plenty   of   white   rice   and black   beans   plus   it   was   served   with   plantain   chips.     A   decent   bottle   of   Spanish   wine   was   about   20   bucks   and   the   service   was   great.     We   were   out   of   there   for   about   $40   without   any   appetizers   or   drinks   but   that   included   a couple   of   bottled   waters.      We   skipped   café   con   leche   as   we   needed   to   sleep.      Taxi   men   are   waiting   as   we   emerge   from   Plaza   Catedral   and   a   nice   young   guy   takes   us   back   towards   Hotel   Ingleterre   for   $10   without   much conversation.      We   always   walk   the   last   two   blocks   as   we   can   describe   the   apartment   address   plus   San   Rafael   is   a   pedestrian   block   between   Ingleterre   and   our   apartment.      For   hotels,   we   very   much   liked   the   area   around Hotel Ingleterre and Parque Central as it did not seem as tight and busy as Havana Vieja.
Day 2 Havana Vieja Up   for   our   walking   tour   day.      We   have   decided learn   on   our   own   as   we   are   getting   along   so well   with   the   Cubans,   everybody   wants   to   talk and   we   want   to   learn   about   the   people   as   well as   the   architecture   of   Old   Havana.      Speaking   of the   lack   of   small   change   yesterday,   today   the hotel   apologized   as   I   got   my   whole   $200   in   $5 bills, so go figure.  Gina   was   sitting   in   a   chair   in   the   hotel   lobby listening   to   a   classic   pianist.      She   suggested   the hotel   breakfast   as   we   needed   something   to   get going   and   the   music   was   quite   nice.      Breakfast was   only   $8   CUC   each   so   we   pay   and   head inside.      It   was   more   basic   than   most   Caribbean hotel   buffets,   but   we   still   had   some   scrambled eggs   and   some   nice   touches   like   roasted   peppers   in   oil   and   a   pretty   good   cheese   tray.      Coffee   was   self   serve   so   we   had   a   couple   of   cups.      Well   worth   the   price   and   the   music   was   fantastic   from   orchestra   classics   to   50s show tunes.  We had an appointment at 11 to shoot pictures of last night’s Paladar and speak with the owners for our blog.  We   looked   at   a   couple   of   hotels   but   it   seemed   the   security   was   watching   us   as   we   went   from   hotel   lobby   to   hotel   lobby.      We   went   past   the   revolutionary   museum   and   met   Juan   Carla   a   one- legged   basketball   coach.      He   showed   us   his   neighborhood   including   the   apartment   where   Che   Guevara   lived   for   a   while   and   the   neighborhood   bar   where   he   and   Hemingway   supposedly   drank from   time   to   time.     They   had   Gina   ring   the   bell   as   anyone   would   do   to   announce   their   arrival.      It   was   all   in   good   fun   but   who   knew   if   any   of   it   was   true   as   Hemingway   supposedly   left   Havana   in 1960 after the revolution. On   our   way   through   Havana   Viejo,   we   stopped   to   admire   some   paintings   and   got   talking   with the   painter   Luis   Ramondi   Gomez   and   his   wife.      He   was   located   at   Tejadillo   #209.      He   had beautiful   tropical   paintings   and   told   us   he   had   ten   of   them   up   in   Miami   at   Doral.      I   asked   why   he did   not   paint   smaller   ones   the   tourists   could   get   home   and   he   replied   that   “he   could   not   see   them small”   which   was   interesting   to   us.      I   was   explaining   that   many   cruise   ship   tourists   wanted   a keepsake   but   something   small   they   could   put   in   the   suitcase   and   take   home.      I   explained   I   have   a painter   friend   of   mine   who   lived   all   summer   off   of   postcards   when   there   were   not   rich   tourists   in Florida   to   buy   paintings   and   he   was   very   interested.      I   promised   to   send   my   digital   pictures formatted   as   postcards   to   help   with   his   business.      It   is   interesting   as   the   Cubans   want   to   learn how   to   run   small   businesses   and   market   their   goods   but   there   is   not   much   information   available about that in that environment. We   stop   at   Dona   Eutemia   and   learn   that   the   mother   originally   started   the   restaurant   that   the   family   now   runs.      She   used   to encourage   people   to   linger   but   it   was   one   of   the   first   Paladars   in   Havana   that   had   opened   around   2010   so   they   had   a   line   out the   door.     The   small   business   people   we   are   meeting   are   hard   working   and   all   appear   to   be   successful   but   there   seems   to   be   a lot   of   competition   for   the   new   entrants   without   the   good   guidebook   recommendations.      We   had   made   reservations   at   some of   the   best   paladars   who   are   regularly   turn   away   guests   without   reservations,   so   there   is   business   to   be   had   as   people   show   menus   in   the   Catedral   Plaza.      One   figure   we   saw   said   there   were   1100   paladars   in   Havana.      Dona Eutemia   was   one   of   the   best   in   Havana   according   to   Lonely   Planet   but   we   needed   a   reservation   2 weeks prior to arriving to even get into the house on a Sunday evening in off season.  Next   door   to   the   paladar   was   the   Taller   Experimental   de   Grafica   and   boy   was   this   place   interesting   at least   for   me   doing   digital   graphics   and   understanding   the   history   of   graphics   and   printing   all   the   way back   to   Gutenberg.      We   had   no   appointment,   we   had   just   wandered   in   but   we   were   immediately invited   into   the   back   where   the   artists   were   working   and   showed   how   the   print   making   process happened.      We   were   there   over   an   hour.      One   project   had   15   colors   and   the   artist   Gullermo   Ramirez Malberti   was   working   on   color   #8.      The   place   had   these   great   old   presses   and   they   pressed   with   stone blocks.      We   got   to   see   works   in   process,   how   the   presses   and   stones   work.      Everyone   was   friendly   and   glad   to   show   us   their   work   and   work   in   process.      We   saw   all   kind   of   print   making   in   many   mediums   plus   wood   inlay projects   and   all   kind   of   creativity.      Gina   liked   a   print   from   Ricardo   Silveira   Miro   who   works   in   vivid   color.      Prices   were   reasonable   and   everybody   packs   prints   in   cardboard   to   travel.      We   highly   recommend   this   stop which is just off the Plaza Catedral.  We also stopped to see some of their friends at the Tien De Las Brujas to see the collection of los elfos near Mercoderas and Oreilly. Next   we   went   on   to   the   Plaza   de Armas.      Santa   Isabella   had   music   on   the   square   and   the   whole   district   was   just   nice.      The   Royal   Caribbean   Empress   of   the   Seas   was   parked nearby.      My   vacations   always   have   a   little   bit   of   work   as   you   go   by   and   look   at   hotels   or   go   off   to   shoot   pictures   for   the   blog.      We   were   surprised   when   we   turned   the   corner from   Plaza   de Armas   as   the   ship   was   right   there.      They   had   backed   her   into   the   pier   and   the   50’s   Chevys   were   rolling   past   with   guests.      On   our   way   back   to   the   old   town,   we saw   a   man   with   two   dressed   up   wiener   dogs   with   hats   and   sunglasses   that   were   posing   for   pictures   in   a   little   car.      They   were   absorbing   all   the   love   as   people   passed   by   but   the old   man   was   pretty   vexed   trying   to   collect   his   “fees”   from   tourists   who stopped   to   shoot   pictures   or   selfies.      He   was   plain   and spoke   English   when   he   advised   tourists   it   cost   1   CUC   to   shoot   a   picture   but people   tried   to   sneak   them   anyway.      Be   advised   that   when you   enter   a   poor   country,   this   is   what   the   man   and   the   dogs   do   for   work.      If you   shoot   a   picture,   pay   the   man   and   take   a   little   extra money as you are visiting poor nations with enterprising individuals who go out to entertain you.  We   were   at   the   other   end   of   old   Havana   at   the   Plaza Vieja   when   it   started   to sprinkle.      We   ducked   into   a   place   called   the   Factoria   Micro Cerverza   for   a   beer   and   little   more   musica.      Gina   had   the   light   and   I   had   a dark   but   we   decided   the   dark   was   a   little   better.      This   is   a   slick   computer   controlled   micro   brew   that   has c ome   up   with   plastic   towers   that   hold   either   3l   or   5l   of   beer.      We   just   had   a glass   each   but   many   of   the   groups   ordered   a   “beer   tower”   which      put   a   tap   on   the   table.      They   had   a unique frozen ice column in the middle of the tower to cool the beer.  Been there and done that but never have we seen one of those before. By   this   point,   we   were   starting   to   see   dark   ominous   rain   clouds.     As   we   walked   Mercaderes   we   had   been   approached   an   hour   earlier by   a   polite   restaurant   salesman   at   the   Paladar   Los   Mercaderes.      He   rang   a   bell   as   we   came   up   the   steps   to   alert   the   crew   as   the restaurant   was   on   the   second   floor.      Without   planning,   we   had   chosen   our   3rd   of   Lonely   Planet’s   5   best   paladars   in   Havana   and arrived   at   a   late   afternoon   time   when   we   could   get   a   table.      At   the   top   of   the   steps   was   another   trio   was   again   playing   music   in   the restaurant   as   we   navigate   musica,   musica,   musica.      They   were   called   the   Song   of   Caramel   and   also   were   pretty   good.      I   want   to emphasize   we   saw   no   bad   entertainment   in   4   days,   everybody   was   talented   and   trained   under   the   Cuban   system   that   has   maintained cultural values under the revolution.  We   took   a   table   inside   which   was   good   as   lightning   was   crashing   and   buckets   of   rain   were   running   by   now   in   the   Havana Vieja.      Gina got   to   order   her   ropa   vieja   that   was   sidelined   by   fresh   shrimp   last   night   and   it   was   an   excellent   choice.      I   think   finished   with   sherry but Yamil   said   it   was   a   secret   which   just   means   it   will   take   me   a   few   more   trips.      I   had   a   thick   piece   of   Snapper   with   a   beautiful   white wine   mustard   cream   sauce.      We   had   agreed   to   share   and   we   both   were   glad   we   did.      Most   paladars   in   Havana   are   a-la-carte.      Make sure   you   have   the   black   beans   at   Paladar   Los   Mercaderes   as   they   were   fantastic   with   spices   and   bay   leaf   plus   a   bowl   of   steamed   veggies   was   only   a   few   bucks.   I   was   glad   for   the rain   as   it   was   a   good   excuse   for   dessert   and   café   con   leche.         We   had   a   huge   slice   of   flan   was   more   cake   custard   consistency   and   topped   with   a   dollop   of   fresh   coconut   infused with sugar.  This was served with a scoop of home-made vanilla ice cream with raspberry ribbons as a beautiful dessert. This   was   the   second   of   three   great paladar   meals   we   had   in   Havana.      Yamil   is   an   engineer by   trade   and   took   that   approach   to running   a   restaurant.      His   American   clientele   had   gone from    35%    to    almost    70%    of    his business     which     included     a     lot     of     older     Cuban Americans   as   he   is   about   1000   feet from   the   cruise   ship.      The   quality   of   his   food   comes from   the   quality   of   his   ingredients so    he    has    families    that    raise    pigs,    grow    lambs    and another   family   that   grows   a   special kind   of   bean   that   makes   creamier   black   beans   when cooked,   plus   fishermen   and   even   fresh   pineapples   for   his   pina   coladas.      Menu Prices   were   a   little   more   than   last   night   but   he   was saying   that   he   then   can   share   extra   so   he   gets   top   quality   ingredients.      He   wants animals   raised   and   fed   a   certain   way   to   increase   taste quality   in   his   meals.      To   us   for   the   quality   of   the   food,   it   still   seemed   cheap according   to   American   restaurants.      The   paladar   was originally   his   wife’s   mother’s   house   and   it   was   decorated   beautifully   and   chic.     Gina   even   commented   they   not   only   have   a   great   toilet seat but also rose petals sprinkled in the rest room. As   we   talked   with   Cuban   entrepreneurs   who   operate   under   a   socialist   system, we   have   all   kinds   of   questions   we   don’t   ask.     As   I   am   a guest   in   Cuba,   we   try   to   focus   on   learning   and   providing   support   from   the   US   tourism   industry,   rather   than   questions   about   political   systems   or   systems   of   business   organization.      I   learned early   on   that   Cuba   has   its   own   way   that   we   don’t   really   understand.      Yamil   is   worried   that   the   change   in   US   rules   will   hurt   everybody’s   expanding   small   businesses.      He   is   grateful   for   info from   the   states   and   my   explanation   of   what   changes   have   been   proposed.            I   find   it   interesting   that   Cuba’s   new   entrepreneurs   are   threading   a   needle   and   this   seemed   to   be   a   casebook   implementation   of   socialism   infused with the market reforms recently implemented in Cuba.  I know the result was a world class meal and we felt that we were in a vibrant Havana at a very exciting time in history. We   go   back   to   our   5th   floor   balcony.     Wave   at   the   folks   across   the   street   on   the   balcony.      In   the AM,   the   fruit   man   sings   as   he   goes   down   the   street.     At   night   the   bread   man   does   the   same   routine.      Buckets   and   bags   tied   to strings   are   lowered   with   pesos   from   the   upper   floor   and   filled   with   goods   to   be   hauled   back   up   by   string   rather   than   running   down   to   shop.      Cigars   are   smoked   by   many   of   the   men   and   cigarette   use   is   very   high   amongst the   population.      The   dog   next   door   has   finally   gotten   used   to   us   but   the   old   people   prefer   not   to   speak   with   the   touristas   who   constantly   inhabit   the Airbnb.      It   is   only   night   #2   but   we   already   have   friends   who   wave   from across the street as the Cubans all seem very friendly including a one year old who is learning how to wave. Tonight   we   are   off   to Taverna   Benny   More   to   hear   some   Cuban   music.      In   the   afternoon,   it   is   sold   as   being   like   Buena Vista.      It   is   actually   a reincarnation   of   the   Roberto   Faz   Band   with   Mazacote   who   is   one   of   the   lost   old   men   that   got   famous   again   after   the   Buena Vista   film   in   the 90s.      They   also   have   Rolito   Rodriguez   and Armandito   Fernandez   who   were   also   pretty famous   singers   in   the   Cuban   showbands   of the   50s   and   60s.      They   also   have   a   guy   in   a slick    suit    who    does    the    Benny    More character   for   a   few   songs.      You   can   tell when   they   switch   the   tempo   from   Cuban   to swing   it’s   time   for   that   part   of   the   Benny More   part   show.      The   show   is   30CUC   each but includes two rum drinks.  In   addition   to   a   12   piece   band,   they   have Daivel     (Benny)     Garcia     and     his     dance partner   who   are   both   dance   teachers.      We get    sucked    into    the    conga    line    and    it    is obvious     she     teaches     dance     as     she     is moving   my   shoulders   even   in   the   minute or   two   as   we   pass   by.      We   have   seen   a   lot of    showtimes    in    30    years    of    being    tour operators    and    travel    agents.        This    one ranked   pretty   high   in   terms   of   production quality    and    musicianship.        I    talked    with Benny     afterward     about     this     and     he immediately   indicated   he   taught   salsa   and rumba to guests arriving in Cuba.  He could use the club in the afternoon and people could come back for the show in the evening.  Again,   I   am   intrigued   to   talk   tourism   with   this   dance   teacher   who   lives   under   this   evolving   brand   of   Cuban   socialism.      We   exchanged   cards   and   agreed   we   would   meet   again   someday   to   finally   teach   Gina   and   I   how   to Latin   dance.     As   we   come   out   a   taxi   man   is   waiting   and   we   walk   a   block   in   the   Havana   night   to   an   older   Fiat.      Streets   are   quiet   on   a   Monday   night   as   we   head   back   to   Centro   Habana.     We   ate   late   lunch   and   skipped   dinner so we have our ripe avocado spread on fresh media noche bread at the apartment before heading off to bed.
Day 3 Las Terrazas We   are   up   early   today   as   we   are   going   to   Las   Terrazas   at   9A.      In   fact,   about   7AM   a   bi-plane   was   buzzing   the   city.      I   first thought   sleepy   eyed   was   that   a   military   exercise? As   it   makes   a   second   and   third   pass   over   the   city,   I   am   thinking   mosquito spraying   as   they   are   working   to   tramp   down   Zika.      I   confirm   it   is   a   bi-plane   as my   brain   wakes   up   and   I   head   in   to   wake   Gina.      Water   pressure   really   stinks this   morning   as   all   the   Cubans   must   be   getting   ready   for   work   and   we   are   on the   5th   floor.      Our   evening   showers   have   been   a   little   better   but   don’t   use   too much shampoo. We   drop   our   half   avocado   and   remainder   of   the   loaf   of   bread   with   Yamile’s abuela   when   we   leave.      I   will   never   forget   her   telling   me   “con   mi   leche”   as she   squeezed   the   ripe   avocado.      She   was   very   sweet   and   had   a   soft   little   voice.     We   head   to   the   famous   Pastelaria   Francesca   for   café   con   leche   with   some sweet   rolls   and   juice   for   breakfast.      Fresh   squeezed   juices   are   everywhere   in Cuba   as   it   seems   to   be   a   luxury   even   a   Cuban   can   afford   for   a   few   pesos   so   we enjoy   fresh   squeezed   pineapple   juice   today.      This   is   a   great   people   watching hub   across   from   Parque   Central   next   to   the   Ingleterre   hotel.      There   are   always the best antique cars at this spot with drivers hawking Havana tours.  Back   to   the   apartment   and   we   are   picked   up   promptly   at   9A   by   Daniel   with   a special   surprise   as   his   son   Daniel   is   along   for   the   ride.         Daniel   is   22   and works   at   the   vaccine   factory.      He   is   very   proud   of   his   country   but   has   never been   to Artemesia   so   this   is   a   tourist   day   for   him   too.      He   talks   about   his   job, his   life,   his   girlfriend   and   Cuba.      We   are   surprised   to   hear   that   Cuba   exports vaccines   for   the   poor   children   in   Venzuela,   Bolivia   and   Uruguay.      He   was   in the    army    for    two    years    and    hopes    to    do    more    education.        We    pass    the guidebook   and   he   translates   for   Dad   who   has   only   been   past   but   not   up   this road to Las Terrazas. Las   Terrazas   is   the   UNESCO   Biosphere   reserve   that   is   about   100   kilometers   outside   of   Havana   to   the   west.      It   is   a   beautiful   natural   area   that   used   to   be   filled   with   coffee   plantations   and   was   getting   deforested   before   the designation.      Many   people   come   out   here   to   hike   in   the   hills   but   we   have   just   come   to   take   a   look   around.      This   is   the   village   of   the   deceased   singer   Polo   Montanez   who   was   a   Cuban   folk   singer.      They   have   a   small museum   that   was   his   house.      Daniel   shows   us   where   he   crashed   on   the   way   home   as   a   footnote.      Also   in   town   was   the   Galleria   de   Lester   Campa   but   it   was   closed   the   day   we   visited.      There   are   also   a   couple   of   nice restaurants and a coffee bar so stay for lunch and enjoy the environs if you travel this far.  It was a great way on a short Havana trip to get out and see the countryside.  On   the   way   home,   we   talked   about   the   car.      This   is   a   58   Chevy   Bellaire   but   it   is   not   the   original   engine   he   explained.      His   dad   made   and   modified   car   parts   sometimes.      Daniel   explains   his   father   drove   large   trucks   as   a civilian   for   the   military   his   whole   life.     We   noticed   quickly   he   only   had   one   window   crank   that   was   removable   and   worked   on   all   four   windows.      He   was   originally   from   the   other   side   of   the   island   in   Bayamo.      Every   once in   a   while,   they   would   visit   Bayamo   but   dad   would   work   on   the   car   for   about   a   week   before   they   left.      With   the   old   Chevy,   it   sounded   like   a   c-check   on   an   airplane   that   engine   parts   were   fixed,   cleaned,   maintained   and worked   on   whether   they   needed   to   be   or   not   from   the   conversation.     There   were   repair   shops   but   his   dad   was   pretty   good   at   maintaining   the   old   girl   to   keep   her   running   as   a   collective   taxi.     A   collective   picks   up   more   than one   person   at   a   time   and   drops   off   along   a   fixed   route   for   a   couple   of   pesos   per   person.      He   has   a   license   to   operate   a   private   business   (the   taxi)   which   costs   about   $40   per   year   and   pays   tax   on   those   earnings   to   the government   monthly.      On   the   way   back   to   Havana,   we   visited   the   Plaza   of   the   Revolution   to   see   the   large   Marti   statue   and   Che   Guevara   metalwork   on   the   government   buildings.      Daniel   and   his   son   were   both   nice   people and we said goodbye as we had a different driver in the AM.  We are hoping to see them again someday at the airport when we arrive but we will see when the new Cuba travel rules come out.
We   went   back   into   Havana   Vieja.      The   band   looked   great   and the    sign    said    lobster    $15,    so    in    we    went.        This    was    the Restaurant   Europa   which   looked   like   a   government   operation but   well   staffed   and   Septeto   Tipico   de   Sones   was   one   of   the best   bar   bands   we   saw   in   the   3   days.      They   even   had   a   dance act   with   them   so   lunchtime   came with    showtime.        Note    the    dance act   is   a   separate   tip   from   the   band.     The     lobster     was     grilled     nicely.       Sautéed    veggies    were    $1    and    so was   rice   and   beans.      We   had   both and   it   was   a   nice   presentation   with a   grilled   lobster   on   top   of   the   shell which   was   on   top   of   the   veggies.     About    $36    with    beer,    water    and coffee.  We      inquired      about      guayabera shirts   and   the   waiter   sent   us   about four    blocks    down    the    street    to Quitrin    Moda    Legitima    Cubana.      He    was    right    very    cute    cotton clothing   at   cheap   prices   so   we   got both   a   shirt   $25   and   a   dress   $32 for Gina. Back   to   change   money   again.      We   keep   joking   that   you   need   to bring   more   money   gringo.      We   had   budgeted   enough   but   you   are   operating   without   the   benefit   of ATMs   or   credit   cards.      Everything   is   still   cash   for Americans   given   the   embargo   but   you   are   only   getting   87   cents   when you   change   a   US   Dollar.      Even   with   the   relaxation   US   banks   and   credit   card   companies   have   been   slow   to   do   business   in   Cuba   because   of   the   recordkeeping   requirements.     We   were   traveling   with   about   $1200   in   50s   and 20s.      We   used   money   belts   and   divided   the   money   between   us   but   we   always   felt   safe   in   Cuba,   even   at   night.      You   have   to   take   extra   funds   as   you   have   to   allow   a   margin   for   error   of   a   cancelled   aircraft   or   something   as even hotels won’t take an American credit card.  We brought about $200 home and would not have been comfortable with any less cushion than that. It   was   late   afternoon   and   Havana   Vieja   was   jammed   with   cruise   ship   passengers.      We   ducked   into   the   Fototeca   de   Cuba   which   was   supposed   to   have   14,000   pictures   but   we   were   only   permitted   in   an   area   with   a   pretty boring   visiting   exhibition   about   cruise   shipping   between   Havana   and   New York.      This   was   supposed   to   be   photos   used   for   the   restauration   process   in   Old   Havana.      Similarly,   the   Museo   de   Ciudad   was   also   closed   which was   supposed   to   be   archives   for   the   restoration.      Things   seem   to   open   and   close   at will   plus   Havana   Vieja   is   a   work   in progress.      We   made   a   quick   afternoon   stop   at the    brew    pub    to    see    a    musical    set from   Azucar,   Tabaco   y   Ron.      The   singer   was good    and    they    had    a    female    flute player    that    was    very    talented.        We    brought back   some   high   quality   Cuban   music from   these   smaller   bands.      You   have   to   tip   a buck   or   two   if   you   watch   music   but they   would   prefer   you   purchase   a   cd.      The   cds once   we   got   home   were   high   quality with    good    production    technique    and    many contained   original   music.     The   Cuban system   highly   values   culture   so   most   of   these people   learned   music   in   school   and continued   on   afterward   for   enjoyment   and   to pick   up   some   extra   cash.      When   the basket   comes   around   we   purchase   our   last   cd for   $8   and   walk   Old   Havana   one   last time back to the apartment for some rest. A   big   bottle   of   water   and   an   hour   on   the   balcony   assured   us   Havana   Central   was   the   same   as   yesterday   and   will   be   tomorrow,   after   we   leave.     The   baby   was   looking   for   us   while   he   took   in   the   action   in   the   street   below   and the   dog   next   door   was   bored   with   us   by   now   and   asleep   on   the   balcony.     As   the   sun   sets   over   Central   Havana   people   are   smoking   on   the   balconies,   traffic   is   making   noise   below   and   the   buildings   continue   to   decay   in   the Caribbean salt air while the cranes move to build the new hotels being built by the Malecon. Tonight   we   are   walking   six   blocks   up   the   Calle   San   Rafael   to   Paladar   San   Cristobal.      San   Rafael   is   the   local   shopping   street   that   is   always   busy   with   foot   traffic   and   shops.      San   Cristobal   is   one   of   the   new   breed   of restaurateur   in   Havana   so   we   are   looking   forward   to   this   “event”.     This   is   the   palador   that   the   ambassador   sent   President   Obama   when   he   visited   with   his   family   last   year.     We   see   a   couple   of tables   turned   away   and   one   couple   is   told   to   come   back   on   Thursday   at   the   earliest.      The   Palador   owner   stops   by   to   say   hello   while   we   are   waiting.      We   are   seated   in   the   VIP   (a/c)   room   on front   of   the   eclectic   catholic   santeria   altar.     Tough   wine   list   as   it   goes   from   $30   to   $150   with   some   pretty   good   wines.      Spanish   wines   dominate   most   of   the   lists   in   Havana.     We   pick   a   Sicilian Nero   for   $40   as   a   nod   to   Gina’s   heritage   as   the   $30   Spanish   wines   are   pretty   average.        We   are   actually   pretty   surprised   to   find   a   Sicilian   Nero   Davola   in   Havana   and   the   bottle   is   discussed   as a   novelty   by   the   waiter   and   owner.      He   asks   me   to   describe   it   and   I   say   you   have   to   really   like   red   wine to   order   a   Nero   as   it   is   a   big   fruity   black   grape   grown   in   the   southern   sun   in   Sicily.     These   are   guys   that are   passionate   about   running   a   restaurant   but   still   trying   to   take   the   restaurant   experience   to   the   world standard   from   Havana   in   the   middle   of   an   embargo   and   the   Cuban   revolution.      San   Cristobal   is   open 12   hours   a   day   six   days   a   week   and   I   hear   various   second   languages   being   spoken   on   our   visit.      Next   to us   is   a   table   of   12   Americans   that   look   and   sound   like   they   came   off   the   cruise   ship.      As   we   leave,   I   speak   with   Carlos   and   he   asks about   the   changes   as   he   also   is   doing   more American   business.     We   explain   independent   travel   which   worries   him   but   we   also   explain that   rules   are   not   out   as   of   yet   so   we   are   not   sure.      I   explain   that   I   have   traveled   the   world   and   his   meal   could   be   put   up   against anything   I   have   eaten   in   Europe   and   he   is   grateful.      I   tell   him   the   travel   industry   will   do   what   it   can   to   keep   moving   people   in   spite   of the changes. We   had   a   great   salad   with   fresh   avocado   and   fresh   basil   served   with   olive   oil,   balsamic   vinegar   and Himalayan   pink   salt.      This   was   followed   by   pork   done   in   mustard   sauce   for   Gina   and   sliced   country style   pork   for   me.      Sides   were   creamed   (mashed)   potatoes   and   grilled   veggies.      This   was   a   nice   mix   of crispy   grilled   veggies.      It   is   day   three   and   we   are   getting   a   little   tired   of   eggplant   but   that   is   the Caribbean    in    the    summertime.            We    skip    dessert    tonight    but    a    ron    (rum)    aperitif    was    brought complimentary   at   the   end   along   with   a   complimentary   cigar   (for   smoking   later).      They   even   had   a choice   of   men’s   and   lady’s   cigars.     The   whole   tab   was   about   $78   plus   tip   even   with   a   $40   bottle   of   wine.     As   we   walk   the   six   blocks   up   San   Rafael,   we   are   amazed   how   safe   Havana   feels,   nobody   bothers   us   and it   is   a   quiet   hot   trip   home.      We   come   on   a   huge   park   where   200   or   more   people   are   using   the   hot   spot   to talk   to   friends   in   other   cities   and   countries   plus   surf   the   web   on   mobile   phones.      Kind   of   an   eerie   site near   midnight   with   all   the   phone   screens   but   there   are   a   couple   of   cops   and   everything   looks   peaceful while people have a beer and speak with friends overseas.
Day 4 The Fort, Fusterlandia and Havana surroundings. We   head   out   to   the   Pasteleria.      Today   it   is   fresh   orange   juice   with   Cuban   toast   and   café con   leche.      We   bring   granny   a   sweet   piece   of   cake   and   an   apple   as   they   happen   to   have cases    of    fresh    South   American    apples    at    the    coffee    shop.        We    stop    off    at    Tiene Artehabana   for   a   little   birthday   shopping   and   find   some   famous   Cuban   art   from   the museum   printed   on   plates   for   Mom’s   kitchen   and   we   see   a   big   CD   collection   for   sale.      I am   looking   for   an   artist   by   the   name   of   Coto   and   ask   the   music   store   man   who   is   older.     He   smiles   and   asks   Americano?      He   is   sorry   as   he   knows   Coto   but   has   none   of   his music   at   the   store   but   compliments   me   on   the   request.      The   plates   are   cheap   at   $10 including   a   stand   and   they   come   packed   in   a   box   for   the   trip.     Abuela   is   delighted   with the   cake   and   apple.   She   asks   me   with   a   big   hand   swish   and   a   vocal   sound   if   I   am   flying home   today   and   no   translation   is   needed.      To   this   I   reply   si   avion   hoy   and   she   gives   me a   hug   while   her   granddaughter   Wendy   takes   the   treats   into   the   apartment   for   a   morning break.  I give Wendy a tip for her Mom and tell her to buy a chicken. Yamile   surprises   us   by   coming   home   on   a   lunch   break   to   see   us   off   and   bring   back   the school   supplies   bag.      She   has   tears   in   her   eyes   and   says   no   moneda,   tuna,   foto   da Tampa y   ninos   de   escuela.      We   thank   her   for   assistance   as   we   could   not   have   arranged   and coordinated   all   of   this   without   her   help.      We   tell   her   to   keep   the   bag,   buy   a   chicken   for the   family   and   she   is   delighted   to   keep   the   bag   as   it   is   heavy   duty   and   bright   pink.      She calls   the   driver   but   has   us   stay   upstairs   in   the   AC   until   he   gets   there.      She   calls   a neighbor   who   is   pretty   strong   so   he   grabs   both   suitcases   and   heads   down   the   five flights.      He   is   thrilled   to   get   a   quick   3CUC   which   is   about   75   pesos   or   a   day’s   salary   for the   average   worker.      We   left   a   tip   for   the   housekeeper   which   is   a   lady   from   upstairs,   we have   seen   her   again   while   we   all   climbed   the   five   flights   plus   the   extra   toilet   paper   and other   toiletries   from   hotels   across   the   world.      It   was   interesting   how   the   whole   building benefitted from the Airbnb as the tourists came and went. I   already   know   Ernesto   is   not   fluent   in   English   so   I   have   been   planning   my   route   in Spanish   overnight.      I   tell   him   in   spanish   I   am   a   travel   agent   so   I   need   to   shoot   pictures of   the   cruise   ship   and   the   city   from   El   Morro.      Up   the   Malecon   one   more   time   to Vedado   past   the   hotels,   then   to   Fusterlandia   and   a   lunch   stop   plus   Hemingways   on   the   way   to   the   airport.      Got   it?      He   nods   yes   and Yamile   gives   me   a   high   five   as   the   gringo   is   going   to   be   ok   on   his   own   and   off   we   go.     On   the   way   to   El   Morro,   I   am   realizing   in   spite   of   the   language   impediment,   this   guy   is   a   good   driver   as   he   asks   Christa?      He   says   in   English   higher   than   the   fort.      I   concur   si   Christa   as   it   is   su   casa   not   mio   casa   and   we change   course   for   the   Christ   statue   which   is   high   above   the   harbor.      Ernesto   is   right   as   this   spot   is   directly   above   the   harbor.     A   lone   guy   is   playing   music   and   singing   at   the   foot   of   the   Christ   statue.   When   we   head   past   El Morro   he   questions   stop?     We   don’t   share   a   language   but   this   guy   is   a   professional   as   he   drops   us   off   near   the   fort   but   says   we   will   have   to   get   picked   up   at   the   bottom   of   the   hill   as   he   can’t   stay   here.     Yeah   this   will   give   us the obligatory long view of the Malecon and another perspective on the city.  As the cruise ship tours are running all the best cars are up here and there seems to be one of everything. As   we   head   off   to   the   Malecon,   I   find   out   I   am   riding   in   a   54   Studebaker   but   it   is   a   pleasant   ride and   he   is   a   very   careful   driver.      Our   agency   sells   hotels   in   Vedado   as   it   gives   clients   access   to   a swim   at   the   end   of   a   hot   day   and   the   tours   of   Havana Viejo   are   included.      Our   tour   packagers   have decent   prices   on   the   formerly   convention   hotels   plus   luggage   is   easier   as   some   of   Havana   Vieja   is restricted   to   automobiles   so   some   hotels   can   be   three   or   four   blocks   walk   from   drop   off.      We   are surprised   when   visiting   as   some   parts   of Vedado   are   pretty   far   from   central   Habana   but   also   newer and   more   suburban   in   nature.      We   passed   through   embassy   row   on   our   way   to   Fusterlandia   which is near Marina Hemingway. Jose   Fuster   is   a   famous   artist   that   they   refer   to   as   the   Picasso   of   Cuba.      Fusterlandia   is   the   creation that   has   now   become   an   attraction   when   you   visit   Havana.      His   mosaics   reminded   me   of   the Gaudi   creations   I   had   seen   in   years   past   at   Park   Guell   but   more   over   the   top   and   more   Caribbean in   nature.      This   is   now   a   whole   neighborhood   decorated   in   mosaic   tiles   with   mythical   creatures raising   up   from   rooftops   and   back   yards.      In   addition   to   Fuster’s   house   the   entire   neighborhood has   similar   decorations   for   blocks   as   you   enter   the   community.      No   entrance   charge   but   a   donation box   and   you   are   welcome   to   wander   around   the   premises   plus   there   is   a   small   art   gallery   of   his work with pretty high prices so his artwork must be valued worldwide. On   our   way   in,   everybody   asks   us   to   see   their   art   shops   so   we   work   our   way   out   through   the shops.      There   are   many   great   home   made   souvenirs   in   Cuba.      This   neighborhood   had   some   pretty good   art,   beautiful   leather   goods   and   other   items.      We   also   had   a   coco   frio   and   the   coconut   water tasted   so   good   on   a   hot   summer   day.      We   view   a   few   more   wall   murals   in   the   neighborhood including   Castro   and   the   Granma   plus   a   pretty   fish   mural.      The   souvenirs   in   Cuba   are   so   nice   and so cheap we probably would have bought more stuff if the gringo had brought more money. I   found   a   fish   restaurant   near   Fusterlandia   called   Santy   Pescador.      It   seemed   pretty   obscure   but   I had   called   yesterday   and   asked   about   Lobster.      The   owner   thought   he   could   get   some   so   we   made a   reservation.      I   knew   I   needed   to   hook   the   driver   up   with   some   neighborhood   guys   so   we   could find   the   restaurant.      I   asked   them   about   Santy   Pescador   and   told   them   to   talk   to   the   driver.      They talk   a   while   even   though   it   is   only   a   couple   of   blocks   it   is   a   right   and   then   a   left.      He   needed   to   ask a   second   group   along   the   way   as   the   restaurant   I   picked   had   no   sign.      In   the   lot,   Gina   and   the driver   sent   me   in   to   check   but   it   was   a   beautiful   little   hideaway   on   a   dock.      When   I   went   back   out Gina   asked   me   if   I   was   sure.      The   driver   joked   by   echoing   her   are   you   sure?   In   English   I   said   si   to   both   of   them   and   told   him   in   Spanish   he could   return   in   an   hour.      When   we   went   in,   Gina   was   surprised   that   the   place   was   so   nice   on   a   river   dock   by   the   fishing   boats   with   fans   on   the ceiling   above   each   table.      Even   though   it   did   not   have   a   sign,   it   had   a   buzzer   on   the   secret   door   up   front   so   they   could   let   you   in.      Fishing   boats were parked out back and the dock had two levels with about 40 tables. They   introduced   me   to   Carlos,   the   owner   and   I   reached   into   my   bag   for   the   rest   of   the   fish   hooks   we   had   brought.      I   explained   in   Spanish   for the   small   men   who   fish   for   him.      He   knew   we   fished   as   we   brought   a   few   sizes   of   hooks   and   he   promised   after   lunch   he   would   see   the fisherman   who   launched   from   his   creek   and   give   them   out.      One   lady   spoke   pretty   good   English   so   we   ordered   two   lobster   dinners   and   a   whole loaf   of   bread   was   brought   out.      This   restaurant   specializes   in   Sushi/Sashimi   as   the   owner   trained   with   Japanese   masters   to   learn   the   technique.     A few Japanese are upstairs and we see courses of Sushi heading upstairs with bowls of wasabi. A   bowl   of   ceviche   is   placed   on   our   table   and   some   Cubans   are   eating   ceviche   as   a   main   course.      Gratis   we   are   told   so   we   guess   for   the   gifts.      We   are   not   usually   fans   of   ceviche   and   a   little   hesitant,   given   food   safety warnings   about   Cuba.      We   each   have   a   taste   and   a   piece   of   bread   but   this   is   followed   by   spoonfulls   as   this   lime   soup   has   chopped   onions,   hot   peppers   and   salt   so   we   figure   if   anywhere   here   with   the   sushi   master.      When the   lobster   course   comes   it   is   a   whole   plate   with   a   big   one   on   top   and   a   plate   of   smaller   “chicken”   lobsters   as   we   used   to   call   them   in   Jamaica.      They   are   split   in   the   shell   and   broiled   in   garlic,   butter   and   spices.      We   are surprised   when   the   second   plate   comes   out   as   the   first   plate   was   obviously   a   serving   for   one.      This   was   an   absolutely   great   last   meal   in   Cuba   and   we   finish   up   with   a   café   con   leche   to   get   artificial   stamina   to   get   through the airport and onto Tampa. Interesting   side   note:   two   tables   over   was   Ricardo Alarcon   who   was   a   former   speaker   of   the Cuban   Parliament.      He   was   at   the   UN   for   30   years   as   a   foreign   minister.     As   he   was   on TV   in the   states   he   seemed   familiar   to   us   but   as   the   other   well   dressed   Cubans   came   into   the restaurant   over   the   lunch   hour   and   all   stopped   to   hail   him   up,   we   realized   we   were   right about   our   suspicions   as   they   took   selfies   with   him.      He   looked   like   any   other   retiree   enjoying lunch   with   his   old   friends   and   all   the   panama   hats   were   perched   on   the   wine   racks   behind them. Ernesto   is   waiting   when   we   come   out.      He   asks   about   the   meal   and   tells   us   he   is   allergic   so doesn’t   eat   langosto.      We   all   joke   about   the   great   restaurant   with   no   sign.      Turning   back   to look   there   is   actually   a   sign   that   can   be   seen   from   the   road   on   the   riverside   but   it   still   seems like   the   secret   restaurant   to   us.      He   heads   about   a   block   and   turns   into   the   Hemingway Marina.      I   point   out   we   meant   Finca Vigia   and   he   says   firmly   no   no,   too   far   con   aeropuerto   at 1600.      I   tell   him   once   again   su   casa,   not   mio   casa   so   aeropuerto   si.      We   had   some   discussion about   which   terminal   and   by   the   time   we   figured   it   all   out   he   got   stopped   by   the   airport police   for   going   the   wrong   way   and   got   a   small   ticket.      He   had   to   get   his   license   and   papers out   for   the   officer   but   they   all   seemed   polite   to   each   other   and   it   was   over   quickly.      He commented   that   it   was   only   a   few   pesos   but   more   a   hassle   to   have   to   go   down   and   pay   the ticket but did not seem upset. Like   on   the   way   in,   the   airport   took   more   time   than   usual.      We   suggest   at   least   three   hours   before   departure   to   arrive   at   the   terminal.     CUCs   need   to   be   changed   back   to   US$   as   they   are   worthless   out   of   Cuba.      You   don’t   get   the   10%   embargo   penalty   back   on   that exchange.      Immigration   was   a   quick   formality   and   they   collected   the   visa   at   that   point   in   time.      Still   no   toilet   seats   at   the   departure lounge   bathrooms.      My   Che   Guevara   t-shirt   was   cheaper   at   the   airport   than   in   Havana   Vieja   and   they   had   double   x   for   the   cheap shrinkable   cotton   shirts.      Not   much   exciting   to   shop   for   at   the   airport   which   is   very   small.      We   walked   out   onto   the   tarmac   and   up   the stairs to the plane just in time as the thunderstorms were coming over the mountains.  Once we were airborne you could see the south coast of Cuba and we plan to go back sometime to the other end of the island. The   flight   north   was   about   one   hour   and   five   minutes   flight   time.      We   arrived   at   US   immigration   and   were   only   asked   the   purpose   of   our   trip.      We   replied   “People   to   People   visit”.      “We   are   travel   agents   and   went   to   learn about   Cuba”.      We   were   asked   did   we   bring   any   alcohol   (no)   and   we   were   waived   on   without   any   further   questions.      We   have   retained   all   our   paperwork   and   receipts   in   a   file   that   is   marked   for   five   years   retirement   date, just   in   case   of   auditing   since   we   did   not   travel   on   an   organized   group   trip.      Ours   was   a   legitimate   independent   people   to   people   visit   as   we   did   interact   with   average   Cubans   full   time   while   we   made   our   way   around Havana.  We have kept our itinerary along with the receipts. Overall   we   had   a   great   trip   to   Havana.      The   people   of   Cuba   were   friendly   and   welcoming   even   for   Americans.      The   destination   seemed   very   safe   and   the   people   of   Cuba   seemed   fairly   happy   and   content   with   their   life under   Cuban   socialism.         The   People   do   earn   less   (about   $20   to   $30   CUC   monthly),   but   they   get   free   food   allowances   for   rice   and   beans   plus   they   are   allowed   to   purchase   additional   staples   at   bodegas   or   depots   for pennies.      Kids   get   free   milk   powder   until   they   are   8   years   old.      The   basic   monthly   phone,   electricity   and   gas   bills   are   about   $2.      They   have   universal   health   care   and   all   medical   coverage   is   provided   free   by   the government.      Gasoline   is   subsidized   plus   beer,   alcohol   and   all   food   sold   by   the   state   is   at   cost   or   near   cost.      Education   is   completely   free   and   they   have   99%   literacy   rate   in   the   country   plus   property   tax   and   taxes   on   goods and   services   are   zero.      Everybody   seemed   like   they   had   the   attitude   that   they   were   all   in   this   together   be   it   our   apartment   neighbors   or   our   drivers   who   tipped   everybody   a   few   pesos   (parking   lot   attendants,   the   taxi   guy who   helped   everybody   back   into   the   busy   road,   etc.)   since   they   were   having   a   good   day.      With   the   advent   of   private   businesses   many   Cubans   are   bringing   in   more   money   as   tips   in   paladars   are   10%.      It   is   already   figured into   the   restaurant   checks   in   many   places   so   pay   attention   in   restaurants.      Service   was   so   good   we   found   ourselves   leaving   a   few   extra   CUCs   at   the   paladars.      Service   was   kind   of   spotty   at   the   government   run   institutions but food was always good and everything eventually got served so it seemed mostly a training issue as the paladars had great service levels. I   know   some   of   my   clients   and   friends   will   think   maybe   I   just   did   not   see   or   hear   from   dissidents   and   that   people   were   afraid   to   speak   to   me   honestly.     We   did   not   really   talk   socialism   versus   capitalism   with   anybody   as   it did   not   seem   prudent   given   the   Cuban   system.      I   know   that   most   of   the   people   I   came   in   contact   with   looked   well   fed,   had   a   cell   phone   and   spoke   positively   of   the   Cuban   system.     We   always   travel   with   our   eyes   open   so   I have   read   the   accounts   of   Cuban   dissidents   and   know   that   those   demonstrating   against   the   government   can   be   imprisoned   in   Cuba.      I   may   be   naïve   but   I   have   always   believed   that   people   should   be   able   to   travel   in   an   open fashion.  I had an island friend who used to say, of capitalism, communism, socialism, tourism is my favorite ism as it allows people of different nations to exchange ideas and friendships.  I   am   just   saying   compared   to   areas   of   Kingston,   Montego   Bay   or downtown   Cancun,   the   quality   of   life   looked   ok   for   the   average Cuban   in   my   apartment   building   and   others   that   I   met   in   the streets   of   Havana.      I   also   applaud   the   Cuban   government   for knowing   the   revolution   must   change   over   time.      It   started   around 2010   when   they   cut   the   barber   shops   and   taxis   loose.      Shortly after    that    they    allowed    paladors    and    casa    particulares.        Now everybody   in   Havana   has   a   room   of   Airbnb   and   a   cousin   who drives   a   taxi.      There   are   almost   half   a   million   entrepreneurs   in Cuba   at   this   point   in   time   so   we   should   be   supporting   those changes    rather    than    continue    to    try    to    isolate    the    Cubans    as Americans   are   only   the   icing   on   a   pretty   healthy   tourism   cake they   have   already   made.      Cuba   did   almost   4   million   tourists   last year   and   only   about   200,000   of   them   came   from   the   United States.      Since   we   are   less   than   5%   of   their   inbound   tourists,   I   am not    sure    why    restrictions    in    Cuba    travel    hurts    anybody    but American   citizens.      Our   ports   and   industries   would   benefit   as Cuba   needs   everything   so   the   embargo   hurts   the   Cubans   but   also hurts   Florida   port   workers   and   businesses   who   could   trade   with Cuba. It   seems   the   Cuban   government   is   now   discussing   where   the needle   ends   up   in   terms   of   how   much   freedom   do   they   award   to start    small    businesses    and    do    they    allow    businesses    to    band together   as   cooperatives.      They   are   concerned   about   a   concept called   “unjust   enrichment”   which   is   the   same   income   inequality discussion   we   have   in   more   developed   countries   as   capitalism gets   out   of   whack   and   all   the   large   corporations   go   crazy   with market   power   through   merger.      They   seem   to   want   to   maintain socialistic   principals   to   preserve   basic   needs   for   everybody   while allowing   culture   (music,   dance   and   the   arts)   to   thrive   for   all children   in   Cuba   which   is   an   honorable   intention.         Raul   Castro realizes   that   the   Cuban   revolution   needs   some   entrepreneurism and   private   ownership   to   spark   growth   but   we   sensed   it   was   too freewheeling   given   the   discussion   we   saw   in   the   party   newspaper and the vibe we saw in the streets of Havana. Even   though   they   have   invited   us   for   travel,   they   have   no   interest in   adopting   our   principals   or   form   of   government   or   any   advice from   us   after   55   years   of   embargo.      Even   those   who   expressed interest    in    travel    said    they    did    not    want    to    leave    Cuba permanently,   just   make   a   little   more   money   so   they   could   visit the   rest   of   the   world.      I   realize   those   lined   up   for   the   long   daily bus   queue   don’t   have   it   so   easy   as   I   walk   the   streets   of   Cuba   and see    half    empty    shelves    in    the    government    stores    around    our apartment.      I   took   notice   that   the   Airbnb   page   said   that   private internet   was   not   allowed   after   Dec.   2016   as   they   want   all   the Cubans using the internet to be in a public space. When   you   visit   a   country   like   Cuba   you   should   realize   that   you are   wealthy,   once   you   hit   the   ground.      Be   generous   with   those assisting    you    but    in    exchange    my    way    was    pretty    easy    as    I traveled   through   Cuba.      If   you   can   afford   to   travel,   you   can afford   to   be   fair   with   those   who   provide   you   services.      In   some countries   I   have   to   negotiate   rates   as   I   am   being   charged   too much.      In   Cuba   because   of   their   lack   of   long   term   skills   being entrepreneurs,   some   of   my   drivers   had   no   idea   about   the   “market price”   they   should   charge   when   I   needed   them   to   work   with   a vehicle for 4 or 5 hours so we paid a little extra to be fair. Seriously,   bring   more   money   than   you   think   you   need.      It   is   quite daunting   for   an   American   to   live   without   credit   cards,   with   just the   money   on   your   person.      You   need   to   allow   for   contingencies and   buying   opportunities   since   all   the   handicrafts   were   beautiful on   the   island.      Remember   that   none   of   these   draconian   policies were    created    by    the    Cubans    except    for    the    separate    CUC currency.          The     embargo     is     a     product     of     the     American Government   so   the   hardships Americans   have   without   being   able to   use   credit   or   debit   cards   is   of   our   own   making.      The   Italians, Germans   and   Canadians   we   saw   were   perfectly   able   to   pay   for   a restaurant meal by credit card or go to an ATM. I   know   regardless   of   the   embargo,   we   will   travel   to   Cuba   again in   our   lifetime.      If   you   get   a   chance   to   see   Cuba   it   is   still   the   real deal   at   this   point   and   you   won’t   be   disappointed.      I   know   we   are very   glad   that   we   made   the   trip   and   will   have   a   lifetime   love   of the   Cuban   people   after   our   first   trip   to   the   island   nation.         I   am sure   we   will   return   to   Cuba,   probably   the   eastern   half   of   the country when we get the chance. We   expect   under   the   changing   rules,   a   cruise   ship   or   an   escorted tour   will   be   the   easiest   way   going   forward   under   the   Trump administration   to   see   Cuba.      Many   of   the   ships   do   an   overnight so   you   can   do   a   people   to   people   tour   but   also   explore   Havana   on your   own   accord.      We   have   space   leaving   Tampa   and   Miami right   now   on   cruise   ships   and   we   can   even   do   last   minute   as   you purchase   your   Cuban   visa   on   the   ship.      We   will   publish   the   rules when   they   are   released   and   search   for   the   legal   ways   to   assist clients travel. 
Postscript On   August   1,   the   Party   Congress   in   Cuba   issued   a   notice   in   the   Granma   Newspaper,   that   they   were   halting   the   issuance   of   new   business   licenses   for   any   type   of   private   business.         All   existing   licenses   are   valid   that   have been   issued   already   and   they   were   clear   they   did   not   want   to   interrupt   their   existing   businesses.      The   Government   has   announced   that   they   had   no   intention   of   moving   back   to   the   day   when   the   government   controlled   all business   but   they   needed   a   hard   stop   to   be   able   to   get   all   the   existing   businesses   into   order   and   make   it   all   work.      They   have   expressed   problems   with   a   mostly   cash   economy,   avoidance   of   the   50%   income   taxes, competition   with   state   businesses/supply   chain   and   the   growing   market   power   of   small   businesses   including   all   the   paladars   and   casa   particulars.      In   our   opinion,   we   were   surprised   how   much   entrepreneurial   activity was going on the apparent success of small business people in Havana. I   think   that   the   United   States   is   taking   a   step   back   by   ending   independent   “people   to   people”   tourism   and   trying   to   sanction   the   government   (military)   run   tourism   businesses.      We   know   that   tourism   does   business   with military   controlled   businesses   in   places   like   Egypt,   China,   Vietnam   and   Myanmar   so   why   not   Cuba?      The   uncertainty   around   the   new   Executive   Order   has   slowed   US   tourism.      In   my   opinion,   it   has   given   the   Cuban government   a   chance   to   slow   down   the   systemic   evolution   to   allowing   certain   kinds   of   private   businesses,   that   is   still   a   subject   for   discussion   amongst   the   party   members.      For   those   in   the   USA   that   want   make   change   in Cuba,   bring   down   the   embargo   and   let   the   flood   of   US   tourists   bring   that   change   from   within.      It   has   already   put   pressure   on   the   system,   since   the   loosening   of   regulations   and   the   extra   tourists   that   were   starting   to   arrive from   the   USA   in   greater   numbers   which   would   continue   to   increase   the   pressure   to   provide   quality   services   in   the   tourism   sector.      Tightening   a   55   year   old   failed   embargo   will   only   slow   the   positive   changes   we   had   seen on the ground in Havana in spite of the slow pace of change on behalf of the Cuban government.
Fusterlandia in Havana Cuba - Fantasyland made from mosaic tiles.
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The last Americans to travel independently to Cuba? The    FAQs    from    OFAC    were    pretty    clear    that    nothing changed   simply   because   of   the   announcement.      We   are traveling   under   the   existing   OFAC   regulations   until   the new   rules   can   be   written.     The   existing   US   rules   for   Cuban travel   are   pretty   straightforward.     There   are   twelve   reasons under   the   “general   license”   for   travel   including   a   “people to   people”   provision.      You   check   that   (or   another   that   you qualify   for)   and   sign   an   affidavit   with   the   airline   swearing you   are   traveling   under   that   provision.     As   an   independent people   to   people   passenger,   you   have   to   have   a   plan   and we have a pretty full schedule of activities. Havana Cuba - The smell of cigars, antique cars and the sound of guitars. The    first    word    that    comes    to    mind    is    WOW.       As    an American,   30   years   of   preconceptions   have   been   blown away   during   the   last   week.      The   Cuban   system   seems   to work   for   most   of   Cuba’s   working   class   and   there   is   a growing      entrepreneurial      sector      since      The      Cuban government    began    to    allow    some    private    business    in certain     areas     of     the     economy.          In     Havana     Vieja, Habaguanex   (affiliated   with   The   City   Historians   Office) has   revitalized   487   buildings   plus   they   are   generating   cash flow   for   future   restorations   with   the   innovative   bars   and restaurants   they   have   developed.      The   Cuban   people   were very    nice    to    us    everywhere    we    went    and    prices    still seemed   relatively   cheap   even   in   the   CUC   tourist   economy.     Police   protection   was   tight   in   public   areas   and   as   a   result, we felt very safe as tourists.
Day 1 Arrival in Centro Havana Daniel    and    Jenny    were    waiting    for    us,    even    with    the delay,   but   we   had   to   hurry   as   they   had   to   go   back   to   the airport.        We    were    riding    in    an    older    58    Bellaire    that shuddered   a   little   when   we   got   to   first   gear,   but   still   ran pretty   good.      All   of   these   50’s   cars   are   belching   exhaust so   that   is   another   smell   that   I   remember   from   the   streets.     It    was    about    half    an    hour    from    the    airport    to    our apartment in Central Havana.  The    caretaker    had    called    two    weeks    ago    to    say    the apartment   elevator   was   being   replaced.      We   had   done   an Airbnb   as   we   were   only   booking   a   month   before.      Our apartment   building   was   newer   but   looked   like   some   60s Soviet   bleak   concrete   design.      It   had   a   big   metal   gate downstairs   and   a   narrow   stairwell   that   wrapped   around the   open   elevator   pit.      We   had   wanted   to   learn   about Havana   and   live   in   Central   Havana   with   the   Cubans   and we   were   not   disappointed.      Her   husband   came   down   and grabbed   Gina’s   bag   and   she   even   took   mine   away   half way   up   as   she   was   used   to   the   steps   and   we   live   on   one floor   at   sea   level.      They   lived   across   the   hall   from   our apartment.      We   met   her   abuela   (grandmother)   who   was the sweetest lady and her daughter was also very nice.  We   got   very   lucky   with   the   apartment   judging   from   some of   the   other   Airbnb   type   accommodations   we   went   past but   we   paid   more   than   average.      Inside   the   apartment   was fantastic   with   a   good   air   conditioning   unit   and   a   balcony.     Water   pressure   was   sketchy   but   other   than   that   we   had   no problem.        The    apartment    allowed    us    to    solve    many problems,    since    we    had    local    help.        We    had    some language    problems    as    we    know    some    conversational Spanish    but    are    certainly    not    fluent.        Yamile    at    the apartment   was   not   fluent   in   English   but   we   were   able   to communicate.      She   had   a   nephew   who   was   a   tour   guide so   we   talked   on   the   phone   and   solved   all   my   problems when   we   first   arrived   at   the   apartment   by   acting   as   a translator   over   the   telephone   and   providing   advice.      We had   a   pretty   good   people   to   people   plan   with   a   little   work thrown     in     and     the     Cubans     implemented     the     plan beautifully. In     a     coincidence,     the     apartment     caretaker     was     the administrator   of   a   school   and   she   needed   the   supplies   we brought   for   her   school.      She   was   excited   about   crayons for   the   preschoolers.      We   had   them   all   pre-packed   in   a cheap   carry-on   bag   so   we   gave   her   the   whole   bag.      We had   also   brought   a   keepsake   picture   of   the   Jose   Marti statue   in   Tampa   that   had   info   on   Ybor   City.      She   was going   to   take   that   to   her   office   at   the   school   as   Marti   is everywhere.      Jose   Marti   is   everywhere   in   Cuba.      He   came to    Tampa    20    times    between    1891    and    1894    as    they prepared   for   the   Spanish   War   of   Independence   so   Tampa and Cuba have always had ties. We   went   out   on   the   balcony   and   we   could   even   see   a sliver   of   the   Caribbean   Sea   along   the   Malecon   but   we were    still    shocked    when    we    looked    at    the    outside condition   of   the   buildings   as   Centro   Habana   is   pretty   run down.        I    had    heard    this    before    arriving    but    was    still surprised   at   the   effect   of   the   embargo,   the   salt   air   and   old age   has   had   on   this   once   beautiful   Caribbean   capitol   city.     I    could    only    think    that    a    lot    of    lumber,    plywood    and concrete   could   come   out   of   Port   Tampa   if   we   could   move goods    and    people,    freely,    it    would    help    our    Florida economy.      America   could   make   a   fortune   in   toilet   seats alone. We    head    out    into    the    bright sunshine       to       Jose       Marti Boulevard   or   The   Prado   as   it   is still   called   from   Spanish   days.     The   first   thing   we   learned   from these    artists    is    the    Embargo affects    everything.        They    all have    to    make    art    paper    from recycled   paper.      Juan   Gonzalez makes   paper   mache   boxes   and even    furniture,    Isabel    Carles painted      beautiful      fish      and Marta   Gonzalez   “Maytego”   did wood   block   printing.      One   guy was      painting      inside      Coke bottles   with   a   tiny   brush.      We got   to   discuss   art   in   general   in Cuba    as    everyone    was    very literate    and    eager    to    have    an exchange    with    the    American travel   agents   who   write   a   blog.     We      saw      a      Cuban      clown entertaining the children.  We     ask     about     Callejon     de Hamel     and     pointed     in     the direction   by   the   artists.      As   we cross   the   street   a   cool   lemon   yellow   Chevy   Impala   ragtop turns   the   corner.     A   ride   in   one   of   these   old   birds   is   always at   least   $10   or   $20   CUC.      We   are   quoted   $20   because   of the   distance.      Sr.   Quiala   owns   this   car   and   he   has   one   of our   favorites   Bob   Marley   on   the   CD   player   as   we   turn around   on   the   Prado.      We   notice   he   turns   the   volume   way down   when   we   pull   up   next   to   the   police   car   but   we   crank Bob   up   again   as   this   majestic   piece   of   chrome   and   steel cranks   up   to   speed   on   the   Malecon.      He   loves   Bob   so   he pulls   up   a   couple   more   of   his   favorites.      The   Chevy   has   a little   metal   box   with   5   or   6   different   sized   buttons   and   we soon   realizes   besides   Bob,   we   get   a   horn   concert   as   he hails    up    friends    or    approaches    an    intersection.        Each button   is   attached   to   a   horn   of   a   different   pitch   so   he   can literally play music after all these years. Callejon      de      Hamel      is      the     Afro      Cuban/Santoria neighborhood   and   they   do   a   rumba   like   show   time   on Sundays.      It   is   packed,   hot   and   like   the   guidebook   says, kind   of   touristy.      There   is   a   small   amount   of   artwork,   a couple   of   bar/restaurants.     The   stage   where   the   show   goes on   is   packed   6   deep   with   tourists   so   we   are   only   there about   a   half   hour.      We   do   buy   a   couple   of   cheap   $5   CDs from   Kiki   who   is   a   music   teacher.      The   neighborhood   has a   primary   school   that   is   supported   by   the   tourists   and   the CDs   support   the   music   school.         If   you   will   listen,   they are    eager    to    show    you    the    community    projects    like schools   that   are   paired   with   tourism   projects.      It   is   not even    noon    yet    and    we    are    starting    to    realize    that community   and   neighbors   seem   to   be   part   of   the   social experiment     they     are     proud     to     tell     the     Americans.       Remember   as   an   agent,   I   have   not   advised   anybody   in Havana   that   I   was   arriving   and   we   are   moving   among   the local   population   as   we   try   to   do   when   we   really   want   to learn   about   a   place.      We   head   off   walking   to   the   Malecon and   eventually   across   Central   Havana   which   was   part   of today’s    plan.        We    ate    in    a    bar/restaurant    in    Central Havana.      It   was   a   good   chicken   lunch,   but   overpriced   for the gringos first meal. Centro    Havana    was    pretty    bleak    past    our    apartment unless   you   have   a   specific   place   you   are   heading.      With the   redevelopment,   the   Havana   Vieja   has   a   nice   vibe   with music    everywhere    amongst    the    t-shirt    shops    and    local neighborhoods    scattered    throughout    the    quarter.            We went   into   Gale   da   Manos   on   Obispo   #411   with   Artesania Cubana.      Gina   got   a   nice   lined   hand   crocheted   purse   for $10   CUC.      It   was   hand   made   by Ana   Iris   Pena   and   is   very nice.      All   of   the   art   products   seemed   to   be   inexpensive and   genuine   compared   to   other   islands.      We   noticed   a shady   park   with   an   open   air   bar   next   door   called   Ruinas Del   Parque.      They   had   a   pretty   good   band   called   San Miguel    with    fathers    and    sons    and    a    dread    playing Trombone   plus   2   guitars,   2   percussion   players   and   a   great singer.      It   was   your   typical   tourist   scene   but   the   band   was great   and   it   was   a   good   time   in   the   day   just   to   cool   out.     Beers   were   about   $3.50   and   a   Limeade   was   $2.      The basket   always   get   passed   around   for   the   band   so   collect your $1 CUC coins as small change can be scarce.  That   evening,   I   had   a   reservation   at   Dona   Eutemia   which was    one    of    the    first    Paladars    in    Havana    Vieja.        It    is located    in    an    alley    off    the    Plaza    Catedral.        This    is traditional   Cuban   food   plain   and   simple.      We   had   shrimp that   had   a   hint   of   Catalonia   in   Spain   with   cooked   garlic.     It   came   with   a   great   cold   salad   plate   with   lettuce   and cabbage,   blanched   green   beans,   cucumbers   and   tomatoes.     They    also    brought    out    plenty    of    white    rice    and    black beans   plus   it   was   served   with   plantain   chips.      A   decent bottle    of    Spanish    wine    was    about    20    bucks    and    the service   was   great.      We   were   out   of   there   for   about   $40 without    any    appetizers    or    drinks    but    that    included    a couple   of   bottled   waters.      We   skipped   café   con   leche   as we   needed   to   sleep.      Taxi   men   are   waiting   as   we   emerge from   Plaza   Catedral   and   a   nice   young   guy   takes   us   back towards      Hotel      Ingleterre      for      $10      without      much conversation.      We   always   walk   the   last   two   blocks   as   we can   describe   the   apartment   address   plus   San   Rafael   is   a pedestrian   block   between   Ingleterre   and   our   apartment.     For   hotels,   we   very   much   liked   the   area   around   Hotel Ingleterre   and   Parque   Central   as   it   did   not   seem   as   tight and busy as Havana Vieja.
Day 2 Havana Vieja Up   for   our   walking   tour   day.         We   looked   at   a   couple   of hotels   but   it   seemed   the   security   was   watching   us   as   we went   from   hotel   lobby   to   hotel   lobby.      We   went   past   the revolutionary   museum   and   met   Juan   Carla   a   one-legged basketball    coach.        He    showed    us    his    neighborhood including   the   apartment   where   Che   Guevara   lived   for   a while     and     the     neighborhood     bar     where     he     and Hemingway hung.  On   our   way   through   Havana   Viejo,   we   stopped   to   admire some    paintings    and    got    talking    with    the    painter    Luis Ramondi   Gomez   and   his   wife.      He   had   beautiful   tropical paintings   and   told   us   he   had   ten   of   them   up   in   Miami   at Doral.      I   asked   why   he   did   not   paint   smaller   ones   the tourists   could   get   home   and   he   replied   that   “he   could   not see them small” which was interesting to us.  Next     door     to     the     Dona     Eutemia     was     the     Taller Experimental     de     Grafica     and     boy     was     this     place interesting    at    least    for    me    doing    digital    graphics    and understanding   the   history   of   graphics   and   printing   all   the way   back   to   Gutenberg.      We   had   no   appointment,   we   had just   wandered   in   but   we   were   immediately   invited   into the   back   where   the   artists   were   working   and   showed   how the   print   making   process   happened.      We   were   there   over an    hour.        One    project    had    15    colors    and    the    artist Gullermo   Ramirez   Malberti   was   working   on   color   #8.     The   place   had   these   great   old   presses   and   they   pressed with   stone   blocks.      We   got   to   see   works   in   process,   how the   presses   and   stones   work.      Everyone   was   friendly   and glad   to   show   us   their   work   and   work   in   process.      We   saw all   kind   of   print   making   in   many   mediums   plus   wood inlay   projects   and   all   kind   of   creativity.      Gina   liked   a print    from    Ricardo    Silveira    Miro    who    works    in    vivid color.      Prices   were   reasonable   and   everybody   packs   prints in   cardboard   to   travel.      We   highly   recommend   this   stop which   is   just   off   the   Plaza   Catedral.      We   also   stopped   to see   some   of   their   friends   at   the   Tien   De   Las   Brujas   to   see the collection of los elfos near Mercoderas and Oreilly. Next   we   went   on   to   the Plaza   de   Armas.      Santa Isabella    had    music    on the   square   and   the   whole district     was     just     nice.       The     Royal     Caribbean Empress   of   the   Seas   was parked     nearby.          My vacations   always   have   a little   bit   of   work   as   you go   by   and   look   at   hotels or      go      off      to      shoot pictures     for     the     blog.       We   were   surprised   when we     turned     the     corner from   Plaza   de   Armas   as the   ship   was   right   there.     They   had   backed   her   into   the   pier   and   the   50’s   Chevys were   rolling   past   with   guests.      On   our   way   back   to   the   old town,   we   saw   a   man   with   two   dressed   up   wiener   dogs with   hats   and   sunglasses   that   were   posing   for   pictures   in a little car.  We   were   at   the   other   end   of   old   Havana   at   the   Plaza Vieja when   it   started   to   sprinkle.     We   ducked   into   a   place   called the    Factoria    Micro    Brew    for    a    beer    and    little    more musica.        By    this    point,    we    were    starting    to    see    dark ominous    rain    clouds.       As    we    walked    Mercaderes    we ducked   into   Paladar   Los   Mercaderes.      They   rang   a   bell   as we   came   up   the   steps   to   alert   the   crew   as   the   restaurant was    on    the    second    floor.        Without    planning,    we    had chosen    our    3rd    of    Lonely    Planet’s    5    best    paladars    in Havana   and   arrived   at   a   late   afternoon   time   when   we could   get   a   table.     At   the   top   of   the   steps   was   another   trio was   again   playing   music   in   the   restaurant   as   we   navigate musica,   musica,   musica.      They   were   called   the   Song   of Caramel   and   also   were   pretty   good.      I   want   to   emphasize we   saw   no   bad   entertainment   in   4   days,   everybody   was talented    and    trained    under    the    Cuban    system    that    has maintained cultural values under the revolution.  We   took   a   table   inside   which   was   good   as   lightning   was crashing   and   buckets   of   rain   were   running   by   now   in   the Havana   Vieja.      Gina   got   to   order   her   ropa   vieja   that   was sidelined    by    fresh    shrimp    last    night    and    it    was    an excellent   choice.      I   had   a   thick   piece   of   Snapper   with   a beautiful    white    wine    mustard    cream    sauce.        We    had agreed   to   share   and   we   both   were   glad   we   did.      Most paladars   in   Havana   are   a-la-carte.      Make   sure   you   have the   black   beans   at   Paladar   Los   Mercaderes   as   they   were fantastic   with   spices   and   bay   leaf   plus   a   bowl   of   steamed veggies   was   only   a   few   bucks.   I   was   glad   for   the   rain   as   it was   a   good   excuse   for   dessert   and   café   con   leche.         We had     a     huge     slice     of     flan     was     more     cake     custard consistency   and   topped   with   a   dollop   of   fresh   coconut infused   with   sugar.      This   was   served   with   a   scoop   of home-made   vanilla   ice   cream   with   raspberry   ribbons   as   a beautiful dessert. As       we       talked       with       Cuban entrepreneurs    who    operate    under    a socialist   system,   we   have   all   kinds of   questions   we   don’t   ask.     As   I   am   a guest   in   Cuba,   we   try   to   focus   on learning   and   providing   support   from the   US   tourism   industry,   rather   than questions   about   political   systems   or systems   of   business   organization.      I learned    early    on    that    Cuba    has    its own     way     that     we     don’t     really understand.      I   know   the   result   was   a world   class   meal   and   we   felt   that   we were    in    a    vibrant    Havana    at    a    very    exciting    time    in history. We   go   back   to   our   5th   floor   balcony.      Wave   at   the   folks across   the   street   on   the   balcony.      In   the AM,   the   fruit   man sings   as   he   goes   down   the   street.     At   night   the   bread   man does   the   same   routine.      Buckets   and   bags   tied   to   strings are   lowered   with   pesos   from   the   upper   floor   and   filled with   goods   to   be   hauled   back   up   by   string   rather   than running   down   to   shop.      Cigars   are   smoked   by   many   of the    men    and    cigarette    use    is    very    high    amongst    the population.      The   dog   next   door   has   finally   gotten   used   to us   but   the   old   people   prefer   not   to   speak   with   the   touristas who   constantly   inhabit   the Airbnb.      It   is   only   night   #2   but we   already   have   friends   who   wave   from   across   the   street as   the   Cubans   all   seem   very   friendly   including   a   one   year old who is learning how to wave. Tonight   we   are   off   to   Taverna   Benny   More   to   hear   some Cuban   music.      In   the   afternoon,   it   is   sold   as   being   like Buena   Vista.      It   is   actually   a   reincarnation   of   the   Roberto Faz   Band   with   Mazacote   who   is   one   of   the   lost   old   men that   got   famous   again   after   the   Buena   Vista   film   in   the 90s.      They   also   have   Rolito   Rodriguez   and   Armandito Fernandez   who   were   also   pretty   famous   singers   in   the Cuban   showbands   of   the   50s   and   60s.      They   also   have   a guy   in   a   slick   suit   who   does   the   Benny   More   character   for a   few   songs.      The   show   is   30CUC   each   but   includes   two rum drinks. 
Day 3 Las Terrazas We   are   up   early   today   as   we   are   going   to   Las   Terrazas   at 9A.      In   fact,   about   7AM   a   bi-plane   was   buzzing   the   city.     I   first   thought   sleepy   eyed   was   that   a   military   exercise? As   it   makes   a   second   and   third   pass   over   the   city,   I   am thinking   mosquito   spraying   as   they   are   working   to   tramp down   Zika.      I   confirm   it   is   a   bi-plane   as   my   brain   wakes up   and   I   head   in   to   wake   Gina.      Water   pressure   really stinks   this   morning   as   all   the   Cubans   must   be   getting ready for work and we are on the 5th floor. We   drop   our   half   avocado   and   remainder   of   the   loaf   of bread   with   Yamile’s   abuela   when   we   leave.      We   head   to the   famous   Pastelaria   Francesca   for   café   con   leche   with some   sweet   rolls   and   juice   for   breakfast.      Fresh   squeezed juices   are   everywhere   in   Cuba   as   it   seems   to   be   a   luxury even   a   Cuban   can   afford   for   a   few   pesos   so   we   enjoy fresh   squeezed   pineapple   juice   today.      This   is   a   great people   watching   hub   across   from   Parque   Central   next   to the   Ingleterre   hotel.      There   are   always   the   best   antique cars at this spot with drivers hawking Havana tours.  Back   to   the   apartment   and   we   are   picked   up   promptly   at 9A   by   Daniel   with   a   special   surprise   as   his   son   Daniel   is along   for   the   ride.         Daniel   is   22   and   works   at   the   vaccine factory.      He   is   very   proud   of   his   country   but   has   never been   to Artemesia   so   this   is   a   tourist   day   for   him   too.      He talks   about   his   job,   his   life,   his   girlfriend   and   Cuba.      We are   surprised   to   hear   that   Cuba   exports   vaccines   for   the poor   children   in   Venzuela,   Bolivia   and   Uruguay.      He   was in    the    army    for    two    years    and    hopes    to    do    more education.      We   pass   the   guidebook   and   he   translates   for Dad   who   has   only   been   past   but   not   up   this   road   to   Las Terrazas. Las   Terrazas   is   the   UNESCO   Biosphere   reserve   that   is about   100   kilometers   outside   of   Havana   to   the   west.      It   is a   beautiful   natural   area   that   used   to   be   filled   with   coffee plantations     and     was     getting     deforested     before     the designation.      Many   people   come   out   here   to   hike   in   the hills   but   we   have   just   come   to   take   a   look   around.     This   is the   village   of   the   deceased   singer   Polo   Montanez   who was   a   Cuban   folk   singer.      Also   in   town   was   the   Galleria de    Lester    Campa.        There    are    also    a    couple    of    nice restaurants   and   a   coffee   bar   so   stay   for   lunch   and   enjoy the environs if you travel this far.  On   the   way   home,   we   talked   about   the   car.      This   is   a   58 Chevy    Bellaire    but    it    is    not    the    original    engine    he explained.        His    dad    made    and    modified    car    parts sometimes.      Daniel   explains   his   father   drove   large   trucks as   a   civilian   for   the   military   his   whole   life.      We   noticed quickly     he     only     had     one     window     crank     that     was removable   and   worked   on   all   four   windows.     With   the   old Chevy,    it    sounded    like    a    c-check    on    an    airplane    that engine   parts   were   fixed,   cleaned,   maintained   and   worked on     whether     they     needed     to     be     or     not     from     the conversation.      On   the   way   back   to   Havana,   we   visited   the Plaza   of   the   Revolution   to   see   the   large   Marti   statue   and Che   Guevara   metalwork   on   the   government   buildings.     Daniel   and   his   son   were   both   nice   people   and   we   said goodbye but we are hoping to see them again.
We   went   back   into   Havana Vieja.     The   band   looked   great and   the   sign   said   lobster   $15,   so   in   we   went.      This   was the   Restaurant   Europa   which   looked   like   a   government operation   but   well   staffed   and   Septeto   Tipico   de   Sones was   one   of   the   best   bar   bands   we   saw   in   the   3   days.     They   even   had   a   dance   act   with   them   so   lunchtime   came with   showtime.      Note   the   dance   act   is   a   separate   tip   from the    band.        The    lobster    was    grilled    nicely.        Sautéed veggies   were   $1   and   so   was   rice   and   beans.      We   had both   and   it   was   a   nice   presentation   with   a   grilled   lobster on   top   of   the   shell   which   was   on   top   of   the   veggies.     About   $36   with   beer,   water   and   coffee.      We   inquired about   guayabera   shirts   and   the   waiter   sent   us   about   four blocks    down    the    street    to    Quitrin    Moda    Legitima Cubana.      He   was   right   very   cute   cotton   clothing   at   cheap prices   so   we   got   both   a   shirt   $25   and   a   dress   $32   for Gina. It   was   late   afternoon   and   Havana Vieja   was   jammed   with cruise   ship   passengers.      We   ducked   into   the   Fototeca   de Cuba   but   the   Museo   de   Ciudad   was   also   closed.      We made   a   quick   afternoon   stop   at   the   brew   pub   to   see   a musical   set   from Azucar,   Tabaco   y   Ron.      The   singer   was good   and   they   had   a   female   flute   player   that   was   very talented.      We   brought   back   some   high   quality   Cuban music   from   these   smaller   bands.      You   have   to   tip   a   buck or   two   if   you   watch   music   but   they   would   prefer   you purchase   a   cd.      The   cds   once   we   got   home   were   high quality    with    good    production    technique    and    many contained original music.  A   big   bottle   of   water   and   an   hour   on   the   balcony   assured us   Havana   Central   was   the   same   as   yesterday   and   will   be tomorrow,   after   we   leave.      The   baby   was   looking   for   us while   he   took   in   the   action   in   the   street   below   and   the dog   next   door   was   bored   with   us   by   now   and   asleep   on the   balcony.     As   the   sun   sets   over   Central   Havana   people are   smoking   on   the   balconies,   traffic   is   making   noise below    and    the    buildings    continue    to    decay    in    the Caribbean   salt   air   while   the   cranes   move   to   build   the new hotels being built by the Malecon. Tonight    we    are    walking six    blocks    up    the    Calle San     Rafael     to     Paladar San      Cristobal.            San Rafael       is       the       local shopping     street     that     is always     busy     with     foot traffic    and    shops.        San Cristobal    is    one    of    the new   breed   of   restaurateur   in   Havana   so   we   are   looking forward   to   this   “event”.      The   Palador   owner   stops   by   to say   hello   while   we   are   waiting.     We   are   seated   in   the VIP (a/c)   room   on   front   of   the   eclectic   catholic   santeria   altar.     These    are    guys    that    are    passionate    about    running    a restaurant     but     still     trying     to     take     the     restaurant experience   to   the   world   standard   from   Havana   in   the middle   of   an   embargo   and   the   Cuban   revolution.      San Cristobal   is   open   12   hours   a   day   six   days   a   week   and   I hear   various   second   languages   being   spoken   on   our   visit.     Next   to   us   is   a   table   of   12   Americans   that   look   and sound   like   they   came   off   the   cruise   ship.     As   we   leave,   I speak   with   Carlos   and   he   asks   about   the   changes   as   he also    is    doing    more    American    business.        We    explain independent    travel    which    worries    him    but    we    also explain   that   rules   are   not   out   as   of   yet   so   we   are   not   sure.     I   explain   that   I   have   traveled   the   world   and   his   meal could   be   put   up   against   anything   I   have   eaten   in   Europe and   he   is   grateful.      I   tell   him   the   travel   industry   will   do what    it    can    to    keep    moving    people    in    spite    of    the changes. We   had   a   great   salad   with   fresh   avocado   and   fresh   basil served   with   olive   oil,   balsamic   vinegar   and   Himalayan pink   salt.      This   was   followed   by   pork   done   in   mustard sauce   for   Gina   and   sliced   country   style   pork   for   me.     Sides    were    creamed    (mashed)    potatoes    and    grilled veggies.      This   was   a   nice   mix   of   crispy   grilled   veggies.     It   is   day   three   and   we   are   getting   a   little   tired   of   eggplant but   that   is   the   Caribbean   in   the   summertime.         We   skip dessert    tonight    but    a    ron    (rum)    aperitif    was    brought complimentary   at   the   end   along   with   a   complimentary cigar   (for   smoking   later).      As   we   walk   the   six   blocks   up San    Rafael,    we    are    amazed    how    safe    Havana    feels, nobody   bothers   us   and   it   is   a   quiet   hot   trip   home.      We come   on   a   huge   park   where   200   or   more   people   are using   the   hot   spot   to   talk   to   friends   in   other   cities   and countries   plus   surf   the   web   on   mobile   phones.      Kind   of an   eerie   site   near   midnight   with   all   the   phone   screens   but there   are   a   couple   of   cops   and   everything   looks   peaceful while    people    have    a    beer    and    speak    with    friends overseas.
Day     4     The     Fort,     Fusterlandia     and Havana surroundings. I   already   know   Ernesto   is   not   fluent   in   English   so   I   have been   planning   my   route   in   Spanish   overnight.      I   tell   him in   spanish   I   am   a   travel   agent   so   I   need   to   shoot   pictures of   the   cruise   ship   and   the   city   from   El   Morro.      Up   the Malecon   one   more   time   to Vedado   past   the   hotels,   then   to Fusterlandia   and   a   lunch   stop   plus   Hemingways   on   the way   to   the   airport.      Got   it?      He   nods   yes   and Yamile   gives me   a   high   five   as   the   gringo   is   going   to   be   ok   on   his   own and   off   we   go.      As   the   cruise   ship   tours   are   running   all the   best   cars   are   up   here   and   there   seems   to   be   one   of everything. As   we   head   off   to   the   Malecon,   I   find   out   I   am   riding   in   a 54   Studebaker   but   it   is   a   pleasant   ride   and   he   is   a   very careful   driver.      We   are   surprised   when   visiting   as   some parts   of   Vedado   are   pretty   far   from   central   Habana   but also   newer   and   more   suburban   in   nature.      Jose   Fuster   is   a famous   artist   that   they   refer   to   as   the   Picasso   of   Cuba.     Fusterlandia    is    the    creation    that    has    now    become    an attraction   when   you   visit   Havana.      His   mosaics   reminded me   of   the   Gaudi   creations   I   had   seen   in   years   past   at   Park Guell    but    more    over    the    top    and    more    Caribbean    in nature.      This   is   now   a   whole   neighborhood   decorated   in mosaic    tiles    with    mythical    creatures    raising    up    from rooftops   and   back   yards.      In   addition   to   Fuster’s   house the    entire    neighborhood    has    similar    decorations    for blocks   as   you   enter   the   community.      No   entrance   charge but    a    donation    box    and    you    are    welcome    to    wander around   the   premises   plus   there   is   a   small   art   gallery   of   his work    with    pretty    high    prices    so    his    artwork    must    be valued worldwide. I   found   a   fish   restaurant   near   Fusterlandia   called   Santy Pescador.        It    seemed    pretty    obscure    but    I    had    called yesterday   and   asked   about   Lobster.      The   owner   thought he   could   get   some   so   we   made   a   reservation.      I   knew   I needed   to   hook   the   driver   up   with   some   neighborhood guys   so   we   could   find   the   restaurant.      I   asked   them   about Santy   Pescador   and   told   them   to   talk   to   the   driver.      They talk   a   while   even   though   it   is   only   a   couple   of   blocks   it   is a   right   and   then   a   left.      He   needed   to   ask   a   second   group along   the   way   as   the   restaurant   I   picked   had   no   sign.      In the   lot,   Gina   and   the   driver   sent   me   in   to   check   but   it   was a   beautiful   little   hideaway   on   a   dock.      One   lady   spoke pretty   good   English   so   we   ordered   two   lobster   dinners and    a    whole    loaf    of    bread    was    brought    out.        This restaurant    specializes    in    Sushi/Sashimi    as    the    owner trained   with   Japanese   masters   to   learn   the   technique.      A few   Japanese   are   upstairs   and   we   see   courses   of   Sushi heading    upstairs    with    bowls    of    wasabi.        A    bowl    of ceviche    is    placed    on    our    table    and    some    Cubans    are eating    ceviche    as    a    main    course.           When    the    lobster course   comes   it   is   a   whole   plate   with   a   big   one   on   top and   a   plate   of   smaller   “chicken”   lobsters   as   we   used   to call   them   in   Jamaica.      They   are   split   in   the   shell   and broiled   in   garlic,   butter   and   spices.      We   are   surprised when   the   second   plate   comes   out   as   the   first   plate   was obviously   a   serving   for   one.     This   was   an   absolutely   great last   meal   in   Cuba   and   we   finish   up   with   a   café   con   leche to   get   artificial   stamina   to   get   through   the   airport   and onto Tampa. Like   on   the   way   in,   the   airport   took   more   time   than   usual.     We   suggest   at   least   three   hours   before   departure   to   arrive at   the   terminal.      CUCs   need   to   be   changed   back   to   US$ as   they   are   worthless   out   of   Cuba.     You   don’t   get   the   10% embargo   penalty   back   on   that   exchange.      Immigration was   a   quick   formality   and   they   collected   the   visa   at   that point   in   time.      Still   no   toilet   seats   at   the   departure   lounge bathrooms.      My   Che   Guevara   t-shirt   was   cheaper   at   the airport   than   in   Havana   Vieja   and   they   had   double   x   for the   cheap   shrinkable   cotton   shirts.      Not   much   exciting   to shop   for   at   the   airport   which   is   very   small.      We   walked out   onto   the   tarmac   and   up   the   stairs   to   the   plane   just   in time     as     the     thunderstorms     were     coming     over     the mountains.      Once   we   were   airborne   you   could   see   the south   coast   of   Cuba   and   we   plan   to   go   back   sometime   to the other end of the island. The   flight   north   was   about   one   hour   and   five   minutes flight   time.     We   arrived   at   US   immigration   and   were   only asked   the   purpose   of   our   trip.      We   replied   “People   to People   visit”.      “We   are   travel   agents   and   went   to   learn about   Cuba”.      We   were   asked   did   we   bring   any   alcohol (no)    and    we    were    waived    on    without    any    further questions.        We    have    retained    all    our    paperwork    and receipts   in   a   file   that   is   marked   for   five   years   retirement date,   just   in   case   of   auditing   since   we   did   not   travel   on   an organized   group   trip.      Ours   was   a   legitimate   independent people   to   people   visit   as   we   did   interact   with   average Cubans   full   time   while   we   made   our   way   around   Havana.     We have kept our itinerary along with the receipts. It   seems   the   Cuban   government   is   now   discussing   where the   needle   ends   up   in   terms   of   how   much   freedom   do they   award   to   start   small   businesses   and   do   they   allow businesses   to   band   together   as   cooperatives.      They   are concerned   about   a   concept   called   “unjust   enrichment” which   is   the   same   income   inequality   discussion   we   have in   more   developed   countries   as   capitalism   gets   out   of whack    and    all    the    large    corporations    go    crazy    with market   power   through   merger.      They   seem   to   want   to maintain   socialistic   principals   to   preserve   basic   needs   for everybody   while   allowing   culture   (music,   dance   and   the arts)    to    thrive    for    all    children    in    Cuba    which    is    an honorable   intention.         Raul   Castro   realizes   that   the   Cuban revolution     needs     some     entrepreneurism     and     private ownership    to    spark    growth    but    we    sensed    it    was    too freewheeling   given   the   discussion   we   saw   in   the   party newspaper and the vibe we saw in the streets of Havana. Seriously,   bring   more   money   than   you   think   you   need.      It is   quite   daunting   for   an   American   to   live   without   credit cards,   with   just   the   money   on   your   person.      You   need   to allow   for   contingencies   and   buying   opportunities   since all     the     handicrafts     were     beautiful     on     the     island.       Remember   that   none   of   these   draconian   policies   were created    by    the    Cubans    except    for    the    separate    CUC currency.      The   embargo   is   a   product   of   the   American Government   so   the   hardships   Americans   have   without being   able   to   use   credit   or   debit   cards   is   of   our   own making.      The   Italians,   Germans   and   Canadians   we   saw were   perfectly   able   to   pay   for   a   restaurant   meal   by   credit card or go to an ATM. I   know   regardless   of   the   embargo,   we   will   travel   to   Cuba again   in   our   lifetime.      If   you   get   a   chance   to   see   Cuba   it is    still    the    real    deal    at    this    point    and    you    won’t    be disappointed.      I   know   we   are   very   glad   that   we   made   the trip   and   will   have   a   lifetime   love   of   the   Cuban   people after   our   first   trip   to   the   island   nation.         I   am   sure   we   will return   to   Cuba,   probably   the   eastern   half   of   the   country when we get the chance.
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John Rice HAVANA CUBA July 16-19, 2017 The last Americans to travel independently to Cuba? The   alarm   is   set   for   3AM   and   the   bags   are   packed   including   toilet   paper,   half   a   dozen cans   of   tuna,   pencils   and   crayons   for   the   kids   plus   a   good   supply   of   fishing   hooks   as we   hear   they   are   hard   to   get   in   Cuba.      It   is   funny   as   it   is   a   short   1   hour   and   15   minute flight   from   Tampa   on   Southwest   and   we   even   get   free   luggage   but   it   seems   like   a world   away.      We   have   been   waiting   for   this   opportunity   for   30   years   and   certainly since   the   Obama   administration   opened   independent   travel   to   Cuba   but   we   had   been too   busy   to   get   away   until   now.      We   are   excited   and   apprehensive   as   we   will   be   in   a formerly forbidden destination for Americans at 8:15 AM tomorrow morning. When   they   announced   they   were   changing   the   rules   and   eliminating   independent travel,   we   had   one   last   chance   to   just   go   wander   around   and   this   trip   was   planned   the same   day.      I   heard   Rick   Steves   comment   that   people   who   travel   to   Cuba   will   be divided   into   two   groups,   those   that   were   there   while   a   Castro   was   in   power   and   those who   waited   for   the   post   Castro   era   but   by   then   everything   will   change.     We   wanted   to go while Cuba was still Cuba in all its original form.  Planning   was   relatively   easy   and   the   airline   tickets   were   cheap   from   Tampa   and   our $75   Cuban   visas   were   purchased   locally   in   Tampa.      We   were   able   to   secure   an apartment   in   Havana   near   the   Capital   about   two   blocks   from   the   Prado.      We   have been   in   communication   with   the   caretaker   of   the   apartment   who   introduced   us   to   a   couple   of   cousins   that   drive   the   same taxi   so   we   have   a   pre-arranged   ride   from   the   airport.      Because   of   the   US   Embargo   and   restrictions   by   the   Cuban government,   everything   else   is   complicated.      We   have   Paladar   (private   restaurant)   reservations   at   two   of   the   best   in Havana   but   even   that   was   a   complicated   process.     The   first   we   used   Facebook   messenger   but   that   came   back   with   a   note to   email   a   Spain   email   address.      That   worked   and   reservation   number   one   was   done.      The   other   is   one   of   the   trendiest Paladar’s   in   central   Havana   and   there   was   an   email   on   the   webpage.      No   response   a   week   later   so   we   tried   calling   one night.      We   found   later   webpage   administration   was   hard   with   the   Cuban   system   using   only   public   wi-fi   so   many   of   the web   and   Facebook   pages   are   administered   out   of   the   country.      The   Paladar   had   six   phone   numbers   but   the   first   five   did not   work.      On   the   last   one,   we   reached   the   restaurant   and   they   put   an   English   speaking   waiter   on   the   phone   so   we   are   all set. The   FAQs   from   OFAC   were   pretty   clear   that   nothing   changed   simply   because   of   the   announcement.      We   are   traveling under   the   existing   OFAC   regulations   until   the   new   rules   can   be   written.      The   existing   US   rules   for   Cuban   travel   are pretty   straightforward.      There   are   twelve   reasons   under   the   “general   license”   for   travel   including   a   “people   to   people” provision.      You   check   that   (or   another   that   you   qualify   for)   and   sign   an   affidavit   with   the   airline   swearing   you   are traveling   under   that   provision.      As   an   independent   people   to   people   passenger,   you   have   to   have   a   plan   and   we   have   a pretty   full   schedule   that   includes   a   walking   tour   of   old   Havana,   a   visit   to   the Afro   Cuban   neighborhood,   visiting   artists on   the   Prado,   Hemingway’s   House   and   Fursterlandia   on   our   way   to   the   airport.      Tuesday   we’ll   be   going   to   Las   Terrazas to   get   out   of   Havana   for   the   day   and   see   the   countryside.      This   is   about   an   hour   and   a   half   into   Artemesia   province   of Cuba   and   the   area   is   Unesco   Biophere   reserve.      I   have   entitled   this   blog   the   last   Americans   to   travel   Independently   to Cuba   as   we   expect   what   we   are   doing   will   be   outlawed   by   the   US   Government   upon   our   return.      After   that   point,   you will   have   to   travel   on   an   organized   group   people   to   people   tour   or   a   shore   excursion   off   the   cruise   ship.     As   an   agency, we   are   honestly   confused   about   the   new   rules   as   they   seem   contradictory   from   first   read.      If   you   want   to   encourage entrepreneurs in Cuba, why would you outlaw independent travel by Americans?
Havana Cuba - The smell of cigars, antique cars and the sound of guitars. As   I   sit   down   on   a   rainy   Sunday   afternoon   upon our   return,   to   write   about   our   trip   to   Havana   and Las   Terrazas,   Cuba   the   first   word   that   comes   to mind    is    WOW.        As    an    American,    30    years    of preconceptions   have   been   blown   away   during   the last   week.      The   Cuban   system   seems   to   work   for most    of    Cuba’s    working    class    and    there    is    a growing    entrepreneurial    sector    since    The    Cuban government   began   to   allow   some   private   business in   certain   areas   of   the   economy.      In   Havana   Vieja, Habaguanex    (affiliated    with    The    City    Historians Office)   has   revitalized   487   buildings   plus   they   are generating   cash   flow   for   future   restorations   with the    innovative    bars    and    restaurants    they    have developed.       They    generated    5    million    in    annual revenues   in   1995,   40   million   in   2000   and   almost 200    million    in    2015    towards    the    preservation projects.      In   my   research   for   this   trip   and   blog,   one   Cuban   economist   explained   “you   have   to   compare   us   to   Haiti, Jamaica   or   Mexico   when   you   speak   of   economic   development   and   you   have   to   imagine   where   we   might   be   without   the US Embargo.”  Lastly,    the    Cuban    people    were    very    nice    to    us everywhere    we    went    and    prices    still    seemed relatively   cheap   even   in   the   CUC   tourist   economy.     We   did   not   see   any   visible   signs   of   protest   and   no one    voiced    dissent,    even    in    private.        We    were careful   not   to   discuss   domestic   Cuban   politics   as we   are   fully   aware   that   this   is   a   socialist   military government    that    has    pretty    tight    controls    about political   discussion.      Police   protection   was   tight   in public   areas   and   as   a   result,   we   felt   very   safe   as tourists.     As   a   Cuban   in   the   travel   industry   told   me, just   enjoy   Cuba;   don’t   try   to   change   Cuba   and   you will have a great time.  He was right. Southwest   is   on   time   and   the   captain   announces   58 minutes   flight   time   from   Tampa,   luggage   is   FREE and   we   are   wings   up   at   about   7:15   AM.      All   the   little   Cuban/American   girls   had   one   or   two   dolls   for   cousins   and strangely   some   men   were   wearing   stacks   of   4   or   6   hats   at   the   airport.      We   learned   later   they   don’t   make   many   hats   in Cuba   so   Gina   scratched   that   one   off   the   shopping   list.      The   passengers   were   90%   Cuban   Americans   and   10%   tourists.     The   Cubans   all   cheered   and   clapped   when   the   aircraft   touched   down   but   we   have   experienced   that   in   other   Caribbean nations   before.      We   discussed   carry   on   the   next   time   as   luggage   took   almost   1.5   hours   to   get   at   Jose   Marti.      To   be   fair we   saw   a   lot   of   shrink   wrapped   cargo   like   bags   so   I   imagine   every   Cuban American   had   2   bags   given   all   the   things   they need on the island. 
Day 1 Arrival in Centro Havana Our   driver   had   changed   and   it   seemed   everything   was   in   a   little   flux   as   the Cubans   juggled   all   their   jobs.      Daniel   and   Jenny   were   waiting   for   us,   even with   the   delay,   but   we   had   to   hurry   as   they   had   to   go   back   to   the   airport.     We   were   riding   in   an   older   58   Bellaire   that   we   found   out   later   was   Daniel’s baby   as   he   purchased   it   when   he   sold   his   mother’s   house   in   Santa   Clara.     She   was   old   (the   Chevy)   and   shuddered   when   we   got   to   first   gear,   but   still ran   pretty   good.      All   of   these   50’s   cars   are   belching   exhaust   so   that   is another   smell   that   I   remember   from   the   streets.      It   was   about   half   an   hour from   the   airport   to   our   apartment   in   Central   Havana.      Starting   from   the airport, we felt kind of like celebrities as they had not met many Americans. The   caretaker   had   called   two   weeks   ago   to   say   the   apartment   elevator   was being   replaced.      Even   on   a   90   degree   day   this   seemed   to   be   a   mixed blessing   to   the   apartment’s   inhabitants   as   the   elevator   had   not   worked   well for   years.            Many   of   the   Cuban   tour   packages   require   45   days   in   advance.     We   had   done   an   Airbnb   as   we   were   only   booking   a   month   before.      Our apartment    building    was    newer    but    looked    like    some    60s    Soviet    bleak concrete   design.      It   had   a   big   metal   gate   downstairs   and   a   narrow   stairwell that   wrapped   around   the   open   elevator   pit.     They   had   removed   the   doors   but propped   one   up   so   you   did   not   fall   in   at   each   landing.      We   had   wanted   to learn   about   Havana   and   live   in   Central   Havana   with   the   Cubans   and   we were   not   disappointed.      School   supplies   were   packed   separately   so   those were   debagged   to   make   the   bag   lighter   for   the   five   flights   of   stairs.      Yamile was   waiting   at   the   door   downstairs   as   everyone   has   a   cell   phone   so   she   had called   the   taxi.      Her   husband   came   down   and   grabbed   Gina’s   bag   and   she even   took   mine   away   half   way   up   as   she   was   used   to   the   steps   and   we   live on   one   floor   at   sea   level.      They   lived   across   the   hall   from   our   apartment.     We    met    her    abuela    (grandmother)    who    was    the    sweetest    lady    and    her daughter was also very nice.  We   are   pretty   adventurous   but   sometimes   apartment   rental   and   other   ‘ad- hoc’    accommodations    are    not    always    as    reliable    as    a    hotel    reservation (especially   in   the   3rd   world)   but   this   one   was   very   nice.      We   got   very   lucky with     the     apartment     judging     from     some     of     the     other    Airbnb     type accommodations   we   went   past   but   we   paid   more   than   average.      Inside   the apartment   was   fantastic   with   a   good   air   conditioning   unit   and   a   balcony.     Water   pressure   was   sketchy   but   other   than   that   we   had   no   problem.      The apartment   allowed   us   to   solve   many   problems,   since   we   had   local   help.      We had   some   language   problems   as   we   know   some   conversational   Spanish   but are   certainly   not   fluent.      Yamile   at   the   apartment   was   not   fluent   in   English but   we   were   able   to   communicate.      She   had   a   nephew   who   was   a   tour   guide so   we   talked   on   the   phone   and   solved   all   my   problems   when   we   first   arrived at   the   apartment   by   acting   as   a   translator   over   the   telephone   and   providing advice.      We   had   a   pretty   good   people   to   people   plan   with   a   little   work thrown in and the Cubans implemented the plan beautifully. In   a   coincidence,   the   apartment   caretaker   was   the   administrator   of   a   school   and   she   needed   the   supplies   we   brought   for her   school.      She   was   excited   about   crayons   for   the   preschoolers.      We   had   them   all   pre-packed   in   a   cheap   carry-on   bag so   we   gave   her   the   whole   bag.      We   had   also   brought   a   keepsake   picture   of   the   Jose   Marti   statue   in   Tampa   that   had   info on Ybor   City.      She   was   going   to   take   that   to   her   office   at   the   school   as   Marti   is   everywhere.      She   is   going   to   reconfirm our   ride   to   Las   Terrazas   on   Tuesday   and   also   a   taxi   for   a   couple   of   hours on   our   way   to   the   airport.      Before   we   head   out,   she   comes   back   and   asks us   to   autograph   the   picture   as   she   is   going   to   hang   it   in   her   school   office.     Jose   Marti   is   everywhere   in   Cuba.      He   came   to   Tampa   20   times   between 1891   and   1894   as   they   prepared   for   the   Spanish   War   of   Independence   so Tampa and Cuba have always had ties. We    went    out    on    the    balcony    and    we    could    even    see    a    sliver    of    the Caribbean   Sea   along   the   Malecon   but   we   were   still   shocked   when   we looked   at   the   outside   condition   of   the   buildings   as   Centro   Habana   is   pretty run   down.      I   had   heard   this   before   arriving   but   was   still   surprised   at   the effect   of   the   embargo,   the   salt   air   and   old   age   has   had   on   this   once beautiful   Caribbean   capitol   city.      I   could   only   think   that   a   lot   of   lumber, plywood   and   concrete   could   come   out   of   Port   Tampa   if   we   could   move goods   and   people,   freely,   it   would   help   our   Florida   economy.      America could make a fortune in toilet seats alone. We   head   out   to   get   CUCs   and   we   are   told   we   can   go   to   any   hotel.      Hotel Ingleterre   is   on   the   corner.      They   are   friendly;   even   though   we   are   not   a guest   of   the   hotel   and   the   money   exchange   is   a   quick   process.      If   you   are traveling   with   US   dollars,   you   only   end   up   with   about   87   cents   on   the dollar   because   of   the   “penalty”   rate   charged   by   the   Cubans   to   compensate for   the   effect   of   the   embargo.      Europeans   and   Canadians   are   only   charged about   3%.      I   always   thought   Raul   could   have   at   least   gone   to   1   to   1   to reward   Obama   as   a   minor   concession   for   partially   lifting   the   tourism   rules for   people   to   people   travel.   I   realize   after   my   trip   that   the   resolve   of   the Government   not   to   change   the   system   too   much,   too   quickly   plus   there   is a   great   deal   of   anger   and   hard   feelings   about   how   our   government   has treated   the   Cuban   people   for   55   years   but   surprisingly   no   one   is   angry   at the   American   people.      After   four   days   in   Havana,   I   am   more   convinced than ever that we are not going to change Cuba through the embargo. We   head   out   into   the   bright   sunshine   to   Jose   Marti   Boulevard   or   The Prado   as   it   is   still   called   from   Spanish   days.      The   first   thing   we   learned from   these   artists   is   the   Embargo   affects   everything.      They   all   have   to make   art   paper   from   recycled   paper.      Juan   Gonzalez   makes   paper   mache boxes   and   even   furniture,   Isabel   Carles   painted   beautiful   fish   and   Marta Gonzalez   “Maytego”   did   wood   block   printing.      One   guy   was   painting inside   Coke   bottles   with   a   tiny   brush.      We   got   to   discuss   art   in   general   in Cuba   as   everyone   was   very   literate   and   eager   to   have   an   exchange   with the   American   travel   agents   who   write   a   blog.      We   saw   a   Cuban   clown entertaining   the   children.      I   did   not   understand   much   of   what   he   told   the kids   but   they   were   hanging   on   every   word,   laughing   and   singing   along.      It is   only   the   first   morning   but   we   see   everybody   out   with   kids   as   parents seem to cherish spending time with their children in Cuba. We   ask   about   Callejon   de   Hamel   and   pointed   in   the   direction   by   the   artists.     As   we   cross   the   street   a   cool   lemon   yellow Chevy   Impala   ragtop   turns   the   corner.      A   ride   in   one   of   these   old   birds   is   always   at   least   $10   or   $20   CUC.      We   are quoted   $20   because   of   the   distance.      Sr.   Quiala   owns   this   car   and   he   has   one   of   our   favorites   Bob   Marley   on   the   CD player   as   we   turn   around   on   the   Prado.      We   notice   he   turns   the   volume   way   down   when   we   pull   up   next   to   the   police car   but   we   crank   Bob   up   again   as   this   majestic   piece   of   chrome   and   steel   cranks   up   to   speed   on   the   Malecon.      He   loves Bob   so   he   pulls   up   a   couple   more   of   his   favorites   as   we   all   sing   along.      The   Chevy   has   a   little   metal   box   with   5   or   6 different   sized   buttons   and   we   soon   realizes   besides   Bob,   we   get   a   horn   concert   as   he   hails   up   friends   or   approaches   an intersection.  Each button is attached to a horn of a different pitch so he can literally play music after all these years. Callejon   de   Hamel   is   the   Afro   Cuban/Santoria   neighborhood   and   they   do   a   rumba   like   show   time   on   Sundays.      It   is packed,    hot    and    like    the    guidebook    says,    kind    of    touristy.        There    is    a    small    amount    of    artwork,    a    couple    of bar/restaurants.      The   stage   where   the   show   goes   on   is   packed   6   deep   with   tourists   so   we   are   only   there   about   a   half hour.     We   do   buy   a   couple   of   cheap   $5   CDs   from   Kiki   who   is   a   music   teacher.     The   neighborhood   has   a   primary   school that   is   supported   by   the   tourists   and   the   CDs   support   the   music   school.         If   you   will   listen,   they   are   eager   to   show   you the   community   projects   like   schools   that   are   paired   with   tourism   projects.      It   is   not   even   noon   yet   and   we   are   starting   to realize   that   community   and   neighbors   seem   to   be   part   of   the   social   experiment   they   are   proud   to   tell   the   Americans.     Remember   as   an   agent,   I   have   not   advised   anybody   in   Havana   that   I   was   arriving   and   we   are   moving   among   the   local population   as   we   try   to   do   when   we   really   want   to   learn   about   a   place.      We   head   off   walking   to   the   Malecon   and eventually across Central Havana which was part of today’s plan. It   is   every   bit   as   hot   as   Florida   and   we   should   have done    lunch    before    heading    off    across    Central Habana.      There   are   a   couple   of   small   private   “tent” restaurants   on   the   Malecon,   but   they   are   mostly ham   sandwiches   or   things   that   are   getting   going   for later   as   the   charcoal   has   not   yet   been   lit.      We   make a   right   turn   and   head   across   Central   Havana   and   it looks   a   little   like   a   bombed   out   war   zone.      There are    a    couple    of    streets    closed    because    of    total restoration   including   the   streets   and   then   we   get into   where   people   actually   live.      We   walk   another six   blocks   without   seeing   an   acceptable   restaurant.     The   young   Europeans   get   pesos   and   CUC   and   eat ham   sandwiches   but   we   have   agreed   we   did   not   want   to   get   down   to   that   level   with   food   because   of   food   handling practices. We   reach   a   pedestrian   palisade   and   turn   towards   the   Prado.      We   see   a   restaurant   conductor   and   she   advertises   it   is   air conditioned   upstairs.     They   had   a   price   fix   menu   with   a   rum   drink,   entrée,   salad,   lemonade,   coffee   and   desert   for   $15   so we   head   upstairs.      It   was   a   decent   chicken   dinner   but   the   price   fix   menu   was   not   really   true   it   was   a   $5   plate   of   chicken with   rice   and   slaw.      This   was   our   first hustle   of   the   trip   as   it   was   more   a   tiny bar   than   a   restaurant   and   they   did   not offer    some    of    the    items    and    courses.      Then   the   waitress   asked   if   we   wanted   a mojito   so   we   went   along.      Later   it   was announced     that     the     mojito     was     not included   in   the   “free”   rum   drinks.      We suggested    since    you    did    not    serve    the lemonade,   coffee   or   dessert,   we   certainly are    not    paying    for    the    mojitos    as    you said   you   included   a   rum   drink.   Plus   the lady   did   not   say   they   were   extra   when she   suggested   them.      They   finally   agreed but   the   check   came   with   the   2   mojitos showing   $7   and   we   firmly   had   them   take them   off   the   bill.      We   laughed   as   we   hit the   street   as   it   was   overpriced,   but   good food   and   we   probably   would   have   paid $15   for   an   hour   of   a/c   on   a   90+   degree day in Central Havana. As   we   walked   back   to   Havana   Vieja,   we   surmised   that   would   be   enough   for   folks   if   they   want   a   couple   of   days   to Havana.      Centro   Havana   was   pretty   bleak   past   our   apartment   unless   you   have   a   specific   place   you   are   heading.      With the   redevelopment,   the   Havana   Vieja   has   a   nice   vibe   with   music   everywhere   amongst   the   t-shirt   shops   and   local neighborhoods   scattered   throughout   the   quarter.        We   went   into   Gale   da   Manos   on   Obispo   #411   with Artesania   Cubana.     Gina   got   a   nice   lined   hand   crocheted   purse   for   $10   CUC.      It   was   hand   made   by Ana   Iris   Pena   and   is   very   nice.     All   of the   art   products   seemed   to   be   inexpensive   and   genuine   compared   to   other   islands.      We   noticed   a   shady   park   with   an open   air   bar   next   door   called   Ruinas   Del   Parque.     They   had   a   pretty   good   band   called   San   Miguel   with   fathers   and   sons and   a   dread   playing   Trombone   plus   2   guitars,   2   percussion   players   and   a   great   singer.      It   was   your   typical   tourist   scene but   the   band   was   great   and   it   was   a   good   time   in   the   day   just   to   cool   out.      Beers   were   about   $3.50   and   a   Limeade   was $2.  The basket always get passed around for the band so collect your $1 CUC coins as small change can be scarce.  That   evening,   I   had   a   reservation   at   Dona Eutemia   which   was   one   of   the   first   Paladars in   Havana   Vieja.      It   is   located   in   an   alley   off the Plaza Catedral.  This is traditional Cuban food   plain   and   simple.      We   had   shrimp   that had   a   hint   of   Catalonia   in   Spain   with   cooked garlic.      It   came   with   a   great   cold   salad   plate with    lettuce    and    cabbage,    blanched    green beans,   cucumbers   and   tomatoes.      They   also brought   out   plenty   of   white   rice   and   black beans   plus   it   was   served   with   plantain   chips.     A   decent   bottle   of   Spanish   wine   was   about 20   bucks   and   the   service   was   great.      We were   out   of   there   for   about   $40   without   any   appetizers   or   drinks   but   that   included   a   couple   of   bottled   waters.      We skipped   café   con   leche   as   we   needed   to   sleep.      Taxi   men   are   waiting   as   we   emerge   from   Plaza   Catedral   and   a   nice young   guy   takes   us   back   towards   Hotel   Ingleterre   for   $10   without   much   conversation.      We   always   walk   the   last   two blocks   as   we   can   describe   the   apartment   address   plus   San   Rafael   is   a   pedestrian   block   between   Ingleterre   and   our apartment.      For   hotels,   we   very   much   liked   the   area   around   Hotel   Ingleterre   and   Parque   Central   as   it   did   not   seem   as tight and busy as Havana Vieja.
Day 2 Havana Vieja Up   for   our   walking   tour   day.      We have   decided   learn   on   our   own   as we   are   getting   along   so   well   with the   Cubans,   everybody   wants   to   talk and    we    want    to    learn    about    the people   as   well   as   the   architecture   of Old   Havana.      Speaking   of   the   lack of small change yesterday, today the hotel apologized as I got my whole $200 in $5 bills, so go figure.  Gina   was   sitting   in   a   chair   in   the   hotel   lobby   listening   to   a   classic   pianist.      She   suggested the   hotel   breakfast   as   we   needed   something   to   get   going   and   the   music   was   quite   nice.     Breakfast   was   only   $8   CUC   each   so   we   pay   and   head   inside.      It   was   more   basic   than   most Caribbean   hotel   buffets,   but   we   still   had   some   scrambled   eggs   and   some   nice   touches   like roasted   peppers   in   oil   and   a   pretty   good   cheese   tray.      Coffee   was   self   serve   so   we   had   a couple   of   cups.      Well   worth   the   price   and   the   music   was   fantastic   from   orchestra   classics   to 50s   show   tunes.      We   had   an   appointment   at   11   to   shoot   pictures   of   last   night’s   Paladar   and speak with the owners for our blog.  We   looked   at   a   couple   of   hotels   but   it   seemed   the   security   was   watching   us   as   we   went   from hotel   lobby   to   hotel   lobby.      We   went   past   the   revolutionary   museum   and   met   Juan   Carla   a one-legged   basketball   coach.      He   showed   us   his   neighborhood   including   the   apartment where   Che   Guevara   lived   for   a   while   and   the   neighborhood   bar   where   he   and   Hemingway supposedly   drank   from   time   to   time.      They   had   Gina   ring   the   bell   as   anyone   would   do   to announce   their   arrival.      It   was   all   in   good   fun   but   who   knew   if   any   of   it   was   true   as Hemingway supposedly left Havana in 1960 after the revolution. On   our   way   through   Havana Viejo,   we   stopped   to   admire   some   paintings   and   got   talking   with   the   painter   Luis   Ramondi Gomez   and   his   wife.      He   was   located   at   Tejadillo   #209.      He   had   beautiful   tropical   paintings   and   told   us   he   had   ten   of them   up   in   Miami   at   Doral.      I   asked   why   he   did   not   paint   smaller   ones   the   tourists   could   get   home   and   he   replied   that “he   could   not   see   them   small”   which   was   interesting   to   us.      I   was   explaining   that   many   cruise   ship   tourists   wanted   a keepsake   but   something   small   they   could   put   in   the   suitcase   and   take   home.      I   explained   I   have   a   painter   friend   of   mine who   lived   all   summer   off   of   postcards   when   there   were   not   rich   tourists   in   Florida   to   buy   paintings   and   he   was   very interested.      I   promised   to   send   my   digital   pictures   formatted   as   postcards   to   help   with   his   business.      It   is   interesting   as the   Cubans   want   to   learn   how   to   run   small   businesses   and   market   their   goods   but   there   is   not   much   information available about that in that environment. We   stop   at   Dona   Eutemia   and   learn   that   the   mother   originally   started   the   restaurant   that   the   family   now   runs.      She   used to   encourage   people   to   linger   but   it   was   one   of   the   first   Paladars   in   Havana   that   had   opened   around   2010   so   they   had   a line   out   the   door.      The   small   business   people   we   are   meeting   are   hard   working   and   all   appear   to   be   successful   but   there seems   to   be   a   lot   of   competition   for   the   new   entrants   without   the   good   guidebook   recommendations.      We   had   made reservations   at   some   of   the   best   paladars   who   are   regularly   turn   away   guests   without   reservations,   so   there   is   business to   be   had   as   people   show   menus   in   the   Catedral   Plaza.      One   figure   we   saw   said   there   were   1100   paladars   in   Havana.     Dona   Eutemia   was   one   of   the   best   in   Havana   according   to   Lonely   Planet   but   we   needed   a   reservation   2   weeks   prior   to arriving to even get into the house on a Sunday evening in off season.  Next   door   to   the   paladar   was   the Taller   Experimental   de   Grafica   and   boy   was   this   place   interesting   at   least   for   me   doing digital   graphics   and   understanding   the   history   of   graphics   and   printing   all   the   way   back   to   Gutenberg.      We   had   no appointment,   we   had   just   wandered   in   but   we   were   immediately   invited   into   the   back   where   the   artists   were   working and   showed   how   the   print   making   process   happened.      We   were   there   over   an   hour.      One   project   had   15   colors   and   the artist   Gullermo   Ramirez   Malberti   was   working   on   color   #8.      The   place   had   these   great   old   presses   and   they   pressed with   stone   blocks.      We   got   to   see   works   in   process,   how   the   presses   and   stones   work.      Everyone   was   friendly   and   glad to   show   us   their   work   and   work   in   process.      We   saw   all   kind   of   print   making   in   many   mediums   plus   wood   inlay projects   and   all   kind   of   creativity.      Gina   liked   a   print   from   Ricardo   Silveira   Miro   who   works   in   vivid   color.      Prices   were reasonable   and   everybody   packs   prints   in   cardboard   to   travel.      We   highly   recommend   this   stop   which   is   just   off   the Plaza   Catedral.     We   also   stopped   to   see   some   of   their   friends   at   the Tien   De   Las   Brujas   to   see   the   collection   of   los   elfos near Mercoderas and Oreilly. Next   we   went   on   to   the   Plaza   de   Armas.      Santa   Isabella   had   music   on   the   square   and   the   whole   district   was   just   nice.     The   Royal   Caribbean   Empress   of   the   Seas   was   parked   nearby.      My   vacations   always   have   a   little   bit   of   work   as   you   go by   and   look   at   hotels   or   go   off   to   shoot   pictures   for   the   blog.     We   were   surprised   when   we   turned   the   corner   from   Plaza de   Armas   as   the   ship   was   right   there.      They   had   backed   her   into   the   pier   and   the   50’s   Chevys   were   rolling   past   with guests.      On   our   way   back   to   the   old   town,   we   saw   a   man   with   two   dressed up   wiener   dogs   with   hats   and   sunglasses   that   were   posing   for   pictures   in   a little   car.     They   were   absorbing   all   the   love   as   people   passed   by   but   the   old man    was    pretty    vexed    trying    to    collect    his    “fees”    from    tourists    who stopped   to   shoot   pictures   or   selfies.      He   was   plain   and   spoke   English   when he   advised   tourists   it   cost   1   CUC   to   shoot   a   picture   but   people   tried   to sneak   them   anyway.      Be   advised   that   when   you   enter   a   poor   country,   this   is what   the   man   and   the   dogs   do   for   work.      If   you   shoot   a   picture,   pay   the man   and   take   a   little   extra   money   as   you   are   visiting   poor   nations   with enterprising individuals who go out to entertain you.  We   were   at   the   other   end   of   old   Havana   at   the   Plaza   Vieja   when   it   started   to sprinkle.      We   ducked   into   a   place   called   the   Factoria   Micro   Brew   for   a   beer and   little   more   musica.      Gina   had   the   light   and   I   had   a   dark   but   we   decided   the dark   was   a   little   better.      This   is   a   slick   computer   controlled   micro   brew   that has   come   up   with   plastic   towers   that   hold   either   3l   or   5l   of   beer.     We   just   had   a glass   each   but   many   of   the   groups   ordered   a   “beer   tower”   which      put   a   tap   on the   table.      They   had   a   unique   frozen   ice   column   in   the   middle   of   the   tower   to cool   the   beer.      Been   there   and   done   that   but   never   have   we   seen   one   of   those before. By   this   point,   we   were   starting   to   see   dark   ominous   rain   clouds.      As   we walked    Mercaderes    we    had    been    approached    an    hour    earlier    by    a    polite restaurant   salesman   at   the   Paladar   Los   Mercaderes.      He   rang   a   bell   as   we   came up   the   steps   to   alert   the   crew   as   the   restaurant   was   on   the   second   floor.     Without   planning,   we   had   chosen   our   3rd   of   Lonely   Planet’s   5   best   paladars   in Havana   and   arrived   at   a   late   afternoon time   when   we   could   get   a   table.     At   the top   of   the   steps   was   another   trio   was again   playing   music   in   the   restaurant as      we      navigate      musica,      musica, musica.      They   were   called   the   Song   of Caramel   and   also   were   pretty   good.      I   want   to   emphasize   we   saw   no   bad entertainment   in   4   days,   everybody   was   talented   and   trained   under   the   Cuban system that has maintained cultural values under the revolution.  We   took   a   table   inside   which   was   good   as   lightning   was   crashing   and buckets   of   rain   were   running   by   now   in   the   Havana Vieja.      Gina   got   to order   her   ropa   vieja   that   was   sidelined   by   fresh   shrimp   last   night   and   it was   an   excellent   choice.      I   think   finished   with   sherry   but Yamil   said   it was   a   secret   which   just   means   it   will   take   me   a   few   more   trips.      I   had   a thick   piece   of   Snapper   with   a   beautiful   white   wine   mustard   cream sauce.      We   had   agreed   to   share   and   we   both   were   glad   we   did.      Most paladars   in   Havana   are   a-la-carte.      Make   sure   you   have   the   black beans   at   Paladar   Los   Mercaderes   as   they   were   fantastic   with   spices and   bay   leaf   plus   a   bowl   of   steamed   veggies   was   only   a   few   bucks.   I was   glad   for   the   rain   as   it   was   a   good   excuse   for   dessert   and   café   con leche.        We   had   a   huge   slice   of   flan   was   more   cake   custard   consistency and   topped   with   a   dollop   of   fresh   coconut   infused   with   sugar.      This was    served    with    a    scoop    of    home-made    vanilla    ice    cream    with raspberry ribbons as a beautiful dessert. This   was   the   second   of   three   great   paladar   meals   we   had   in   Havana.      Yamil   is   an   engineer   by   trade   and   took   that approach   to   running   a   restaurant.      His   American   clientele   had   gone   from   35%   to   almost   70%   of   his   business   which included   a   lot   of   older   Cuban Americans   as   he   is   about   1000   feet   from   the   cruise   ship.      The   quality   of   his   food   comes from   the   quality   of   his   ingredients   so   he   has   families   that   raise pigs,   grow   lambs   and   another   family   that   grows   a   special   kind   of bean    that    makes    creamier    black    beans    when    cooked,    plus fishermen   and   even   fresh   pineapples   for   his   pina   coladas.      Menu Prices   were   a   little   more   than   last   night   but   he   was   saying   that   he then   can   share   extra   so   he   gets   top   quality   ingredients.      He   wants animals   raised   and   fed   a   certain   way   to   increase   taste   quality   in his   meals.     To   us   for   the   quality   of   the   food,   it   still   seemed   cheap according   to   American   restaurants.      The   paladar   was   originally his   wife’s   mother’s   house   and   it   was   decorated   beautifully   and chic.      Gina   even   commented   they   not   only   have   a   great   toilet seat but also rose petals sprinkled in the rest room. As    we    talked    with    Cuban    entrepreneurs    who    operate under   a   socialist   system,   we   have   all   kinds   of   questions we   don’t   ask.      As   I   am   a   guest   in   Cuba,   we   try   to   focus on   learning   and   providing   support   from   the   US   tourism industry,   rather   than   questions   about   political   systems   or systems   of   business   organization.      I   learned   early   on   that Cuba   has   its   own   way   that   we   don’t   really   understand.     Yamil   is   worried   that   the   change   in   US   rules   will   hurt everybody’s   expanding   small   businesses.      He   is   grateful for    info    from    the    states    and    my    explanation    of    what changes   have   been   proposed.            I   find   it   interesting   that Cuba’s   new   entrepreneurs   are   threading   a   needle   and   this seemed   to   be   a   casebook   implementation   of   socialism infused   with   the   market   reforms   recently   implemented   in Cuba.      I   know   the   result   was   a   world   class   meal   and   we felt   that   we   were   in   a vibrant     Havana     at     a very    exciting    time    in history. We   go   back   to   our   5th floor   balcony.      Wave   at   the   folks   across   the   street   on   the   balcony.      In   the   AM,   the fruit   man   sings   as   he   goes   down   the   street.      At   night   the   bread   man   does   the   same routine.      Buckets   and   bags   tied   to   strings   are   lowered   with   pesos   from   the   upper   floor and   filled   with   goods   to   be   hauled   back   up   by   string   rather   than   running   down   to shop.      Cigars   are   smoked   by   many   of   the   men   and   cigarette   use   is   very   high   amongst the   population.      The   dog   next   door   has   finally   gotten   used   to   us   but   the   old   people prefer   not   to   speak   with   the   touristas   who   constantly   inhabit   the   Airbnb.      It   is   only night   #2   but   we   already   have   friends   who   wave   from   across   the   street   as   the   Cubans all seem very friendly including a one year old who is learning how to wave. Tonight   we   are   off   to   Taverna   Benny   More   to   hear   some   Cuban   music.      In   the afternoon,   it   is   sold   as   being   like   Buena   Vista.      It   is   actually   a   reincarnation   of   the   Roberto   Faz   Band   with   Mazacote who   is   one   of   the   lost   old   men   that   got   famous   again   after   the   Buena   Vista   film   in   the   90s.      They   also   have   Rolito Rodriguez   and Armandito   Fernandez   who   were   also   pretty   famous   singers   in   the   Cuban   showbands   of   the   50s   and   60s.     They   also   have   a   guy   in   a   slick   suit   who   does   the   Benny   More   character   for   a   few   songs.      You   can   tell   when   they switch   the   tempo   from   Cuban   to   swing   it’s   time   for   that   part   of   the   Benny   More   part   show.      The   show   is   30CUC   each but includes two rum drinks.  In    addition    to    a    12 piece   band,   they   have Daivel             (Benny) Garcia   and   his   dance partner   who   are   both dance    teachers.        We get    sucked    into    the conga    line    and    it    is obvious    she    teaches dance      as      she      is moving   my   shoulders even   in   the   minute   or two    as    we    pass    by.      We   have   seen   a   lot   of showtimes       in       30 years    of    being    tour operators    and    travel agents.          This     one ranked   pretty   high   in terms     of     production quality                    and musicianship.                I talked      with      Benny afterward    about    this and   he   immediately   indicated   he   taught   salsa   and   rumba   to   guests   arriving   in   Cuba.      He   could   use   the   club   in   the afternoon and people could come back for the show in the evening.  Again,   I   am   intrigued   to   talk   tourism   with   this   dance   teacher   who   lives   under   this   evolving   brand   of   Cuban   socialism.     We   exchanged   cards   and   agreed   we   would   meet   again   someday   to   finally   teach   Gina   and   I   how   to   Latin   dance.     As   we come   out   a   taxi   man   is   waiting   and   we   walk   a   block   in   the   Havana   night   to   an   older   Fiat.      Streets   are   quiet   on   a Monday   night   as   we   head   back   to   Centro   Habana.      We   ate   late   lunch   and   skipped   dinner   so   we   have   our   ripe   avocado spread on fresh media noche bread at the apartment before heading off to bed.
Day 3 Las Terrazas We   are   up   early   today   as   we   are   going   to   Las   Terrazas   at   9A.      In   fact, about   7AM   a   bi-plane   was   buzzing   the   city.      I   first   thought   sleepy   eyed was   that   a   military   exercise? As   it   makes   a   second   and   third   pass   over   the city,   I   am   thinking   mosquito   spraying   as   they   are   working   to   tramp   down Zika.      I   confirm   it   is   a   bi-plane   as   my   brain   wakes   up   and   I   head   in   to wake   Gina.      Water   pressure   really   stinks   this   morning   as   all   the   Cubans must   be   getting   ready   for   work   and   we   are   on   the   5th   floor.      Our   evening showers have been a little better but don’t use too much shampoo. We    drop    our    half    avocado    and    remainder    of    the    loaf    of    bread    with Yamile’s   abuela   when   we   leave.      I   will   never   forget   her   telling   me   “con mi   leche”   as   she   squeezed   the   ripe   avocado.      She   was   very   sweet   and   had a   soft   little   voice.      We   head   to   the   famous   Pastelaria   Francesca   for   café con   leche   with   some   sweet   rolls   and   juice   for   breakfast.      Fresh   squeezed juices   are   everywhere   in   Cuba   as   it   seems   to   be   a   luxury   even   a   Cuban can   afford   for   a   few   pesos   so   we   enjoy   fresh   squeezed   pineapple   juice today.      This   is   a   great   people   watching   hub   across   from   Parque   Central next   to   the   Ingleterre   hotel.     There   are   always   the   best   antique   cars   at   this spot with drivers hawking Havana tours.  Back   to   the   apartment   and   we   are   picked   up   promptly   at   9A   by   Daniel with   a   special   surprise   as   his   son   Daniel   is   along   for   the   ride.         Daniel   is 22   and   works   at   the   vaccine   factory.      He   is   very   proud   of   his   country   but has   never   been   to Artemesia   so   this   is   a   tourist   day   for   him   too.      He   talks about   his   job,   his   life,   his   girlfriend   and   Cuba.      We   are   surprised   to   hear that   Cuba   exports   vaccines   for   the   poor   children   in   Venzuela,   Bolivia   and   Uruguay.      He   was   in   the   army   for   two   years and   hopes   to   do   more   education.      We   pass   the   guidebook   and   he   translates   for   Dad   who   has   only   been   past   but   not   up this road to Las Terrazas. Las   Terrazas   is   the   UNESCO   Biosphere   reserve   that   is   about   100   kilometers   outside   of   Havana   to   the   west.      It   is   a beautiful   natural   area   that   used   to   be   filled   with   coffee   plantations   and   was   getting   deforested   before   the   designation.     Many   people   come   out   here   to   hike   in   the   hills   but   we   have   just   come   to   take   a   look   around.      This   is   the   village   of   the deceased   singer   Polo   Montanez   who   was   a   Cuban   folk   singer.      They   have   a   small   museum   that   was   his   house.      Daniel shows   us   where   he   crashed   on   the   way   home   as   a   footnote.     Also   in   town   was   the   Galleria   de   Lester   Campa   but   it   was closed   the   day   we   visited.      There   are   also   a   couple   of   nice   restaurants   and   a   coffee   bar   so   stay   for   lunch   and   enjoy   the environs if you travel this far.  It was a great way on a short Havana trip to get out and see the countryside.  On   the   way   home,   we   talked   about   the   car.      This   is   a   58   Chevy   Bellaire   but   it   is   not   the   original   engine   he   explained.     His   dad   made   and   modified   car   parts   sometimes.      Daniel   explains   his   father   drove   large   trucks   as   a   civilian   for   the military   his   whole   life.      We   noticed   quickly   he   only   had   one   window   crank   that   was   removable   and   worked   on   all   four windows.      He   was   originally   from   the   other   side   of   the   island   in   Bayamo.      Every   once   in   a   while,   they   would   visit Bayamo   but   dad   would   work   on   the   car   for   about   a   week   before   they   left.      With   the   old   Chevy,   it   sounded   like   a   c- check   on   an   airplane   that   engine   parts   were   fixed,   cleaned,   maintained   and   worked   on   whether   they   needed   to   be   or   not from   the   conversation.      There   were   repair   shops   but   his   dad   was   pretty   good   at   maintaining   the   old   girl   to   keep   her running   as   a   collective   taxi.     A   collective   picks   up   more   than   one   person   at   a   time   and   drops   off   along   a   fixed   route   for a   couple   of   pesos   per   person.      He   has   a   license   to   operate   a   private   business   (the   taxi)   which   costs   about   $40   per   year and   pays   tax   on   those   earnings   to   the   government   monthly.      On   the   way   back   to   Havana,   we   visited   the   Plaza   of   the Revolution   to   see   the   large   Marti   statue   and   Che   Guevara   metalwork   on   the   government   buildings.      Daniel   and   his   son were   both   nice   people   and   we   said   goodbye   as   we   had   a   different   driver   in   the AM.      We   are   hoping   to   see   them   again someday at the airport when we arrive but we will see when the new Cuba travel rules come out.
We   went   back   into   Havana   Vieja.      The   band   looked   great   and   the   sign   said   lobster   $15,   so in   we   went.      This   was   the   Restaurant   Europa   which   looked   like   a   government   operation but   well   staffed   and   Septeto Tipico   de   Sones   was   one   of   the   best   bar   bands   we   saw   in   the   3 days.      They   even   had   a   dance   act   with   them   so   lunchtime   came   with   showtime.      Note   the dance   act   is   a   separate   tip   from   the   band.      The   lobster   was   grilled   nicely.      Sautéed   veggies were   $1   and   so   was   rice   and   beans.      We   had   both   and   it   was   a   nice   presentation   with   a grilled   lobster   on   top   of   the   shell   which   was   on   top   of   the   veggies.     About   $36   with   beer, water and coffee.  We   inquired   about   guayabera   shirts   and   the   waiter   sent   us   about   four   blocks   down   the street   to   Quitrin   Moda   Legitima   Cubana.      He   was   right   very   cute   cotton   clothing   at   cheap prices so we got both a shirt $25 and a dress $32 for Gina. Back   to   change   money   again.      We   keep joking    that    you    need    to    bring    more money   gringo.      We   had   budgeted   enough but   you   are   operating   without   the   benefit of   ATMs   or   credit   cards.      Everything   is still     cash     for     Americans     given     the embargo    but    you    are    only    getting    87 cents   when   you   change   a   US   Dollar.      Even   with   the   relaxation   US banks   and   credit   card   companies   have   been   slow   to   do   business   in Cuba   because   of   the   recordkeeping   requirements.      We   were   traveling with   about   $1200   in   50s   and   20s.      We   used   money   belts   and   divided   the   money   between   us   but   we   always   felt   safe   in Cuba,   even   at   night.      You   have   to   take   extra   funds   as   you   have   to   allow   a   margin   for   error   of   a   cancelled   aircraft   or something   as   even   hotels   won’t   take   an American   credit   card.      We   brought   about   $200   home   and   would   not   have   been comfortable with any less cushion than that. It   was   late   afternoon   and   Havana Vieja   was   jammed   with   cruise   ship   passengers.     We   ducked   into   the   Fototeca   de   Cuba which   was   supposed   to   have   14,000   pictures   but   we   were   only   permitted   in   an   area   with   a   pretty   boring   visiting exhibition   about   cruise   shipping   between   Havana   and   New   York.      This   was   supposed   to   be   photos   used   for   the restauration   process   in   Old   Havana.      Similarly,   the   Museo   de   Ciudad   was   also   closed   which   was   supposed   to   be archives   for   the   restoration.     Things   seem   to   open   and   close   at   will   plus   Havana Vieja   is   a   work   in   progress.     We   made   a quick   afternoon   stop   at   the   brew   pub   to   see   a   musical   set   from Azucar,   Tabaco   y   Ron.      The   singer   was   good   and   they had   a   female   flute   player   that   was   very   talented.      We   brought   back some   high   quality   Cuban   music   from   these   smaller   bands.      You   have to   tip   a   buck   or   two   if   you   watch   music   but   they   would   prefer   you purchase   a   cd.      The   cds   once   we   got   home   were   high   quality   with good   production   technique   and   many   contained   original   music.      The Cuban   system   highly   values   culture   so   most   of   these   people   learned music   in   school   and   continued   on   afterward   for   enjoyment   and   to pick    up    some    extra    cash.        When    the    basket    comes    around    we purchase   our   last   cd   for   $8   and   walk   Old   Havana   one   last   time   back to the apartment for some rest. A    big    bottle    of    water    and    an    hour    on    the balcony    assured    us    Havana    Central    was    the same   as   yesterday   and   will   be   tomorrow,   after we   leave.      The   baby   was   looking   for   us   while he   took   in   the   action   in   the   street   below   and   the dog   next   door   was   bored   with   us   by   now   and asleep   on   the   balcony.      As   the   sun   sets   over Central    Havana    people    are    smoking    on    the balconies,   traffic   is   making   noise   below   and the     buildings     continue     to     decay     in     the Caribbean    salt    air    while    the    cranes    move    to build     the     new     hotels     being     built     by     the Malecon. Tonight   we   are   walking   six   blocks   up   the   Calle   San   Rafael   to   Paladar   San   Cristobal.     San   Rafael   is   the   local   shopping   street   that   is   always   busy   with   foot   traffic   and   shops.     San   Cristobal   is   one   of   the   new   breed   of   restaurateur   in   Havana   so   we   are   looking forward   to   this   “event”.      This   is   the   palador   that   the   ambassador   sent   President   Obama when   he   visited   with   his   family   last   year.      We   see   a   couple   of   tables   turned   away   and one   couple   is   told   to   come   back   on   Thursday   at   the   earliest.      The   Palador   owner   stops by   to   say   hello   while   we   are   waiting.      We   are   seated   in   the   VIP   (a/c)   room   on   front   of the   eclectic   catholic   santeria   altar.      Tough   wine   list   as   it   goes   from   $30   to   $150   with some   pretty   good   wines.      Spanish   wines   dominate   most   of   the   lists   in   Havana.      We   pick a   Sicilian   Nero   for   $40   as   a   nod   to   Gina’s   heritage   as   the   $30   Spanish   wines   are   pretty average.         We   are   actually   pretty   surprised   to   find   a   Sicilian   Nero   Davola   in   Havana   and   the   bottle   is   discussed   as   a novelty   by   the   waiter   and   owner.      He   asks   me   to   describe   it   and   I   say   you   have   to   really   like   red   wine   to   order   a   Nero   as it   is   a   big   fruity   black   grape   grown   in   the   southern   sun   in   Sicily.      These   are   guys   that   are   passionate   about   running   a restaurant   but   still   trying   to   take   the   restaurant   experience   to   the   world   standard   from   Havana   in   the   middle   of   an embargo   and   the   Cuban   revolution.      San   Cristobal   is   open   12   hours   a   day   six   days   a   week   and   I   hear   various   second languages   being   spoken   on   our   visit.      Next   to   us   is   a   table   of   12 Americans   that   look   and   sound   like   they   came   off   the cruise   ship.      As   we   leave,   I   speak   with   Carlos   and   he   asks   about   the   changes   as   he   also   is   doing   more   American business.      We   explain   independent   travel   which   worries   him   but we   also   explain   that   rules   are   not   out   as   of   yet   so   we   are   not   sure.     I   explain   that   I   have   traveled   the   world   and   his   meal   could   be   put up   against   anything   I   have   eaten   in   Europe   and   he   is   grateful.      I tell   him   the   travel   industry   will   do   what   it   can   to   keep   moving people in spite of the changes. We   had   a   great   salad   with   fresh   avocado   and   fresh   basil   served with   olive   oil,   balsamic   vinegar   and   Himalayan   pink   salt.      This was   followed   by   pork   done   in   mustard   sauce   for   Gina   and   sliced country    style    pork    for    me.        Sides    were    creamed    (mashed) potatoes   and   grilled   veggies.      This   was   a   nice   mix   of   crispy grilled   veggies.      It   is   day   three   and   we   are   getting   a   little   tired   of eggplant   but   that   is   the   Caribbean   in   the   summertime.         We   skip dessert     tonight     but     a     ron     (rum)     aperitif     was     brought complimentary   at   the   end   along   with   a   complimentary   cigar   (for smoking   later).      They   even   had   a   choice   of   men’s   and   lady’s cigars.      The   whole   tab   was   about   $78   plus   tip   even   with   a   $40 bottle   of   wine.     As   we   walk   the   six   blocks   up   San   Rafael,   we   are amazed   how   safe   Havana   feels,   nobody   bothers   us   and   it   is   a quiet   hot   trip   home.     We   come   on   a   huge   park   where   200   or   more people   are   using   the   hot   spot   to   talk   to   friends   in   other   cities   and countries   plus   surf   the   web   on   mobile   phones.      Kind   of   an   eerie site   near   midnight   with   all   the   phone   screens   but   there   are   a couple   of   cops   and   everything   looks   peaceful   while   people   have a beer and speak with friends overseas.
Day 4 The Fort, Fusterlandia and Havana surroundings. We   head   out   to   the   Pasteleria.      Today   it   is   fresh   orange   juice with   Cuban   toast   and   café   con   leche.      We   bring   granny   a sweet   piece   of   cake   and   an   apple   as   they   happen   to   have cases   of   fresh   South American   apples   at   the   coffee   shop.      We stop   off   at   Tiene   Artehabana   for   a   little   birthday   shopping and   find   some   famous   Cuban   art   from   the   museum   printed   on plates   for   Mom’s   kitchen   and   we   see   a   big   CD   collection   for sale.      I   am   looking   for   an   artist   by   the   name   of   Coto   and   ask the    music    store    man    who    is    older.        He    smiles    and    asks Americano?      He   is   sorry   as   he   knows   Coto   but   has   none   of his   music   at   the   store   but   compliments   me   on   the   request.     The   plates   are   cheap   at   $10   including   a   stand   and   they   come packed   in   a   box   for   the   trip.      Abuela   is   delighted   with   the cake   and   apple.   She   asks   me   with   a   big   hand   swish   and   a vocal   sound   if   I   am   flying   home   today   and   no   translation   is needed.      To   this   I   reply   si   avion   hoy   and   she   gives   me   a   hug while    her    granddaughter    Wendy    takes    the    treats    into    the apartment   for   a   morning   break.      I   give   Wendy   a   tip   for   her Mom and tell her to buy a chicken. Yamile   surprises   us   by   coming   home   on   a   lunch   break   to   see us   off   and   bring   back   the   school   supplies   bag.      She   has   tears in   her   eyes   and   says   no   moneda,   tuna,   foto   da   Tampa   y   ninos de   escuela.     We   thank   her   for   assistance   as   we   could   not   have arranged   and   coordinated   all   of   this   without   her   help.     We   tell her   to   keep   the   bag,   buy   a   chicken   for   the   family   and   she   is delighted   to   keep   the   bag   as   it   is   heavy   duty   and   bright   pink.     She   calls   the   driver   but   has   us   stay   upstairs   in   the AC   until   he gets   there.      She   calls   a   neighbor   who   is   pretty   strong   so   he grabs   both   suitcases   and   heads   down   the   five   flights.      He   is thrilled   to   get   a   quick   3CUC   which   is   about   75   pesos   or   a day’s   salary   for   the   average   worker.      We   left   a   tip   for   the   housekeeper   which   is   a   lady   from   upstairs,   we   have   seen her   again   while   we   all   climbed   the   five   flights   plus   the   extra   toilet   paper   and   other   toiletries   from   hotels   across   the world.  It was interesting how the whole building benefitted from the Airbnb as the tourists came and went. I   already   know   Ernesto   is   not   fluent   in   English   so   I   have   been   planning   my   route   in Spanish   overnight.      I   tell   him   in   spanish   I   am   a   travel   agent   so   I   need   to   shoot   pictures   of the   cruise   ship   and   the   city   from   El   Morro.      Up   the   Malecon   one   more   time   to   Vedado   past the   hotels,   then   to   Fusterlandia   and   a   lunch   stop   plus   Hemingways   on   the   way   to   the airport.      Got   it?      He   nods   yes   and   Yamile   gives   me   a   high   five   as   the   gringo   is   going   to   be ok   on   his   own   and   off   we   go.      On   the   way   to   El   Morro,   I   am   realizing   in   spite   of   the language   impediment,   this   guy   is   a   good   driver   as   he   asks   Christa?      He   says   in   English higher   than   the   fort.      I   concur   si   Christa   as   it   is   su   casa   not   mio   casa   and   we   change   course for   the   Christ   statue   which   is   high   above   the   harbor.      Ernesto   is   right   as   this   spot   is   directly above   the   harbor.     A   lone   guy   is   playing   music   and   singing   at   the   foot   of   the   Christ   statue. When   we   head   past   El   Morro   he   questions   stop?      We   don’t   share   a   language   but   this   guy   is a   professional   as   he   drops   us   off   near   the   fort   but   says   we   will   have   to   get   picked   up   at   the bottom   of   the   hill   as   he   can’t   stay   here.      Yeah   this   will   give   us   the   obligatory   long   view   of the   Malecon   and   another   perspective   on   the   city.      As   the   cruise   ship   tours   are   running   all the best cars are up here and there seems to be one of everything. As   we   head   off   to   the   Malecon,   I   find   out   I   am   riding   in   a   54   Studebaker   but   it   is   a   pleasant ride   and   he   is   a   very   careful   driver.      Our   agency   sells   hotels   in Vedado   as   it   gives   clients   access   to   a   swim   at   the   end of   a   hot   day   and   the   tours   of   Havana   Viejo   are   included.      Our   tour   packagers   have   decent   prices   on   the   formerly convention   hotels   plus   luggage   is   easier   as   some   of   Havana   Vieja   is   restricted   to   automobiles   so   some   hotels   can   be three   or   four   blocks   walk   from   drop   off.     We   are   surprised   when   visiting   as   some   parts   of Vedado   are   pretty   far   from central   Habana   but   also   newer   and   more   suburban   in   nature.      We   passed   through   embassy   row   on   our   way   to Fusterlandia which is near Marina Hemingway. Jose   Fuster   is   a   famous   artist   that   they   refer   to   as   the   Picasso   of   Cuba.      Fusterlandia   is   the   creation   that   has   now become   an   attraction   when   you   visit   Havana.      His   mosaics   reminded   me   of   the   Gaudi   creations   I   had   seen   in   years past   at   Park   Guell   but   more   over   the   top   and   more   Caribbean   in   nature.      This   is   now   a   whole   neighborhood decorated   in   mosaic   tiles   with   mythical   creatures   raising   up   from   rooftops   and   back   yards.      In   addition   to   Fuster’s house   the   entire   neighborhood   has   similar   decorations   for   blocks   as   you   enter   the   community.      No   entrance   charge but   a   donation   box   and   you   are   welcome   to   wander   around   the   premises   plus   there   is   a   small   art   gallery   of   his   work with pretty high prices so his artwork must be valued worldwide. On   our   way   in,   everybody   asks   us   to   see   their   art   shops   so   we   work   our   way   out   through   the   shops.     There   are   many great   home   made   souvenirs   in   Cuba.     This   neighborhood   had   some   pretty   good   art,   beautiful   leather   goods   and   other items.      We   also   had   a   coco   frio   and   the   coconut   water   tasted   so   good   on   a   hot   summer   day.      We   view   a   few   more wall   murals   in   the   neighborhood   including   Castro   and   the   Granma   plus   a   pretty   fish   mural.      The   souvenirs   in   Cuba are so nice and so cheap we probably would have bought more stuff if the gringo had brought more money. I   found   a   fish   restaurant   near   Fusterlandia   called   Santy   Pescador.      It   seemed   pretty   obscure   but   I   had   called yesterday   and   asked   about   Lobster.      The   owner   thought   he   could   get   some   so   we   made   a   reservation.      I   knew   I needed   to   hook   the   driver   up   with   some   neighborhood   guys   so   we   could   find   the   restaurant.      I   asked   them   about Santy   Pescador   and   told   them   to   talk   to   the   driver.     They   talk   a   while   even   though   it   is   only   a   couple   of   blocks   it   is   a right   and   then   a   left.      He   needed   to   ask   a   second   group   along   the   way   as   the   restaurant   I   picked   had   no   sign.      In   the lot,   Gina   and   the   driver   sent   me   in   to   check   but   it   was   a   beautiful   little   hideaway   on   a   dock.      When   I   went   back   out Gina   asked   me   if   I   was   sure.      The   driver   joked   by   echoing   her   are   you   sure?   In   English   I   said   si   to   both   of   them   and told   him   in   Spanish   he   could   return   in   an   hour.      When   we   went   in,   Gina   was surprised   that   the   place   was   so   nice   on   a   river   dock   by   the   fishing   boats   with   fans   on the   ceiling   above   each   table.      Even   though   it   did   not   have   a   sign,   it   had   a   buzzer   on the   secret   door   up   front   so   they   could   let   you   in.      Fishing   boats   were   parked   out back and the dock had two levels with about 40 tables. They   introduced   me   to   Carlos,   the   owner   and   I   reached   into   my   bag   for   the   rest   of the   fish   hooks   we   had   brought.      I   explained   in   Spanish   for   the   small   men   who   fish for   him.      He   knew   we   fished   as   we   brought   a   few   sizes   of   hooks   and   he   promised after   lunch   he   would   see   the   fisherman   who   launched   from   his   creek   and   give   them out.      One   lady   spoke   pretty   good   English   so   we   ordered   two   lobster   dinners   and   a whole   loaf   of   bread   was   brought   out.      This   restaurant   specializes   in   Sushi/Sashimi as   the   owner   trained   with   Japanese   masters   to   learn   the   technique.      A   few   Japanese are upstairs and we see courses of Sushi heading upstairs with bowls of wasabi. A   bowl   of   ceviche   is   placed   on   our   table   and   some   Cubans   are   eating   ceviche   as   a   main   course.      Gratis   we   are   told so   we   guess   for   the   gifts.      We   are   not   usually   fans   of   ceviche   and   a   little   hesitant,   given   food   safety   warnings   about Cuba.      We   each   have   a   taste   and   a   piece   of   bread   but   this   is   followed   by   spoonfulls   as   this   lime   soup   has   chopped onions,   hot   peppers   and   salt   so   we   figure   if   anywhere   here   with   the   sushi   master.      When   the   lobster   course   comes   it is   a   whole   plate   with   a   big   one   on   top   and   a   plate   of   smaller   “chicken”   lobsters   as   we   used   to   call   them   in   Jamaica.     They   are   split   in   the   shell   and   broiled   in   garlic,   butter   and   spices.     We   are   surprised   when   the   second   plate   comes   out as   the   first   plate   was   obviously   a   serving   for   one.      This   was   an   absolutely   great   last   meal   in   Cuba   and   we   finish   up with a café con leche to get artificial stamina to get through the airport and onto Tampa. Interesting   side   note:   two   tables   over   was   Ricardo Alarcon   who   was   a   former   speaker   of   the   Cuban   Parliament.      He was   at   the   UN   for   30   years   as   a   foreign   minister.     As   he   was   on   TV   in   the   states   he   seemed   familiar   to   us   but   as   the other   well   dressed   Cubans   came   into   the   restaurant   over   the   lunch   hour   and   all   stopped   to   hail   him   up,   we   realized we   were   right   about   our   suspicions   as   they   took   selfies   with   him.      He   looked   like   any   other   retiree   enjoying   lunch with his old friends and all the panama hats were perched on the wine racks behind them. Ernesto    is    waiting    when    we come   out.      He   asks   about   the meal   and   tells   us   he   is   allergic so   doesn’t   eat   langosto.      We   all joke   about   the   great   restaurant with   no   sign.      Turning   back   to look   there   is   actually   a   sign   that can   be   seen   from   the   road   on the    riverside    but    it    still    seems like   the   secret   restaurant   to   us.     He    heads    about    a    block    and turns      into      the      Hemingway Marina.      I   point   out   we   meant Finca   Vigia   and   he   says   firmly no   no,   too   far   con   aeropuerto   at 1600.      I   tell   him   once   again   su casa,   not   mio   casa   so   aeropuerto si.        We    had    some    discussion about   which   terminal   and   by   the time   we   figured   it   all   out   he   got stopped   by   the   airport   police   for going   the   wrong   way   and   got   a small   ticket.      He   had   to   get   his license    and    papers    out    for    the officer     but     they     all     seemed polite   to   each   other   and   it   was over   quickly.      He   commented   that   it   was   only   a   few   pesos   but   more   a   hassle   to   have   to   go   down   and   pay   the   ticket but did not seem upset. Like   on   the   way   in,   the   airport   took   more   time   than   usual.     We   suggest   at   least   three   hours   before   departure   to   arrive at   the   terminal.      CUCs   need   to   be   changed   back   to   US$   as   they   are   worthless   out   of   Cuba.      You   don’t   get   the   10% embargo   penalty   back   on   that   exchange.      Immigration   was   a   quick   formality   and   they   collected   the   visa   at   that   point in   time.      Still   no   toilet   seats   at   the   departure   lounge   bathrooms.      My   Che   Guevara   t-shirt   was   cheaper   at   the   airport than   in   Havana Vieja   and   they   had   double   x   for   the   cheap   shrinkable   cotton   shirts.      Not   much   exciting   to   shop   for   at the   airport   which   is   very   small.      We   walked   out   onto   the   tarmac   and   up   the   stairs   to   the   plane   just   in   time   as   the thunderstorms   were   coming   over   the   mountains.      Once   we   were   airborne   you   could   see   the   south   coast   of   Cuba   and we plan to go back sometime to the other end of the island. The   flight   north   was   about   one   hour   and   five   minutes   flight   time.      We   arrived   at   US   immigration   and   were   only asked   the   purpose   of   our   trip.      We   replied   “People   to   People   visit”.      “We   are   travel   agents   and   went   to   learn   about Cuba”.      We   were   asked   did   we   bring   any   alcohol   (no)   and   we   were   waived   on   without   any   further   questions.      We have   retained   all   our   paperwork   and   receipts   in   a   file   that   is   marked   for   five   years   retirement   date,   just   in   case   of auditing   since   we   did   not   travel   on   an   organized   group   trip.      Ours   was   a   legitimate   independent   people   to   people visit   as   we   did   interact   with   average   Cubans   full   time   while   we   made   our   way   around   Havana.      We   have   kept   our itinerary along with the receipts. Overall   we   had   a   great   trip   to   Havana.      The   people   of   Cuba   were   friendly   and   welcoming   even   for Americans.      The destination   seemed   very   safe   and   the   people   of   Cuba   seemed   fairly   happy   and   content   with   their   life   under   Cuban socialism.        The   People   do   earn   less   (about   $20   to   $30   CUC   monthly),   but   they   get   free   food   allowances   for   rice   and beans   plus   they   are   allowed   to   purchase   additional   staples   at   bodegas   or   depots   for   pennies.      Kids   get   free   milk powder   until   they   are   8   years   old.      The   basic   monthly   phone,   electricity   and   gas   bills   are   about   $2.      They   have universal   health   care   and   all   medical   coverage   is   provided   free   by   the   government.      Gasoline   is   subsidized   plus   beer, alcohol   and   all   food   sold   by   the   state   is   at   cost   or   near   cost.      Education   is   completely   free   and   they   have   99% literacy   rate   in   the   country   plus   property   tax   and   taxes   on   goods   and   services   are   zero.      Everybody   seemed   like   they had   the   attitude   that   they   were   all   in   this   together   be   it   our   apartment   neighbors   or   our   drivers   who   tipped   everybody a   few   pesos   (parking   lot   attendants,   the   taxi   guy   who   helped   everybody   back   into   the   busy   road,   etc.)   since   they were   having   a   good   day.      With   the   advent   of   private   businesses   many   Cubans   are   bringing   in   more   money   as   tips   in paladars   are   10%.      It   is   already   figured   into   the   restaurant   checks   in   many   places   so   pay   attention   in   restaurants.     Service   was   so   good   we   found   ourselves   leaving   a   few   extra   CUCs   at   the   paladars.      Service   was   kind   of   spotty   at the   government   run   institutions   but   food   was   always   good   and   everything   eventually   got   served   so   it   seemed   mostly a training issue as the paladars had great service levels. I   know   some   of   my   clients   and   friends   will   think   maybe   I   just   did   not   see   or   hear   from   dissidents   and   that   people were   afraid   to   speak   to   me   honestly.      We   did   not   really   talk   socialism   versus   capitalism   with   anybody   as   it   did   not seem   prudent   given   the   Cuban   system.      I   know   that   most   of   the   people   I   came   in   contact   with   looked   well   fed,   had   a cell   phone   and   spoke   positively   of   the   Cuban   system.      We   always   travel   with   our   eyes   open   so   I   have   read   the accounts   of   Cuban   dissidents   and   know   that   those   demonstrating   against   the   government   can   be   imprisoned   in Cuba.      I   may   be   naïve   but   I   have   always   believed   that   people   should   be   able   to   travel   in   an   open   fashion.      I   had   an island   friend   who   used   to   say,   of   capitalism,   communism,   socialism,   tourism   is   my   favorite   ism   as   it   allows   people of different nations to exchange ideas and friendships.  I   am   just   saying   compared   to   areas   of   Kingston,   Montego   Bay   or   downtown   Cancun,   the   quality   of   life   looked   ok for   the   average   Cuban   in   my   apartment   building   and   others   that   I   met   in   the   streets   of   Havana.      I   also   applaud   the Cuban   government   for   knowing   the   revolution   must   change   over   time.      It   started   around   2010   when   they   cut   the barber   shops   and   taxis   loose.      Shortly   after   that   they   allowed   paladors   and   casa   particulares.      Now   everybody   in Havana   has   a   room   of Airbnb   and   a   cousin   who   drives   a   taxi.     There   are   almost   half   a   million   entrepreneurs   in   Cuba at   this   point   in   time   so   we   should   be   supporting   those   changes   rather   than   continue   to   try   to   isolate   the   Cubans   as Americans   are   only   the   icing   on   a   pretty   healthy   tourism   cake   they   have   already   made.      Cuba   did   almost   4   million tourists   last   year   and   only   about   200,000   of   them   came   from   the   United   States.      Since   we   are   less   than   5%   of   their inbound   tourists,   I   am   not   sure   why   restrictions   in   Cuba   travel   hurts   anybody   but American   citizens.      Our   ports   and industries   would   benefit   as   Cuba   needs   everything   so   the   embargo   hurts   the   Cubans   but   also   hurts   Florida   port workers and businesses who could trade with Cuba. It   seems   the   Cuban   government   is   now   discussing   where   the   needle   ends   up   in   terms   of   how   much   freedom   do   they award   to   start   small   businesses   and   do   they   allow   businesses   to   band   together   as   cooperatives.      They   are   concerned about   a   concept   called   “unjust   enrichment”   which   is   the   same   income   inequality   discussion   we   have   in   more developed   countries   as   capitalism   gets   out   of   whack   and   all   the   large   corporations   go   crazy   with   market   power through   merger.      They   seem   to   want   to   maintain   socialistic   principals   to   preserve   basic   needs   for   everybody   while allowing   culture   (music,   dance   and   the   arts)   to   thrive   for   all   children   in   Cuba   which   is   an   honorable   intention.         Raul Castro   realizes   that   the   Cuban   revolution   needs   some   entrepreneurism   and   private   ownership   to   spark   growth   but   we sensed   it   was   too   freewheeling   given   the   discussion   we   saw   in   the   party   newspaper   and   the   vibe   we   saw   in   the streets of Havana. Even   though   they   have   invited   us   for   travel,   they   have   no   interest   in   adopting   our   principals   or   form   of   government or   any   advice   from   us   after   55   years   of   embargo.      Even   those   who   expressed   interest   in   travel   said   they   did   not   want to   leave   Cuba   permanently,   just   make   a   little   more   money   so   they   could   visit   the   rest   of   the   world.      I   realize   those lined   up   for   the   long   daily   bus   queue   don’t   have   it   so   easy   as   I   walk   the   streets   of   Cuba   and   see   half   empty   shelves in   the   government   stores   around   our   apartment.      I   took   notice   that   the Airbnb   page   said   that   private   internet   was   not allowed after Dec. 2016 as they want all the Cubans using the internet to be in a public space. When   you   visit   a   country   like   Cuba   you   should   realize   that   you   are   wealthy,   once   you   hit   the   ground.      Be   generous with   those   assisting   you   but   in   exchange   my   way   was   pretty   easy   as   I   traveled   through   Cuba.      If   you   can   afford   to travel,   you   can   afford   to   be   fair   with   those   who   provide   you   services.      In   some   countries   I   have   to   negotiate   rates   as I   am   being   charged   too   much.      In   Cuba   because   of   their   lack   of   long   term   skills   being   entrepreneurs,   some   of   my drivers   had   no   idea   about   the   “market   price”   they   should   charge   when   I   needed   them   to   work   with   a   vehicle   for   4   or 5 hours so we paid a little extra to be fair. Seriously,   bring   more   money   than   you   think   you   need.      It   is   quite   daunting   for   an   American   to   live   without   credit cards,   with   just   the   money   on   your   person.      You   need   to   allow   for   contingencies   and   buying   opportunities   since   all the   handicrafts   were   beautiful   on   the   island.      Remember   that   none   of   these   draconian   policies   were   created   by   the Cubans   except   for   the   separate   CUC   currency.      The   embargo   is   a   product   of   the   American   Government   so   the hardships   Americans   have   without   being   able   to   use   credit   or   debit   cards   is   of   our   own   making.      The   Italians, Germans and Canadians we saw were perfectly able to pay for a restaurant meal by credit card or go to an ATM. I   know   regardless   of   the   embargo,   we   will   travel   to   Cuba   again   in   our   lifetime.      If   you   get   a   chance   to   see   Cuba   it   is still   the   real   deal   at   this   point   and   you   won’t   be   disappointed.      I   know   we   are   very   glad   that   we   made   the   trip   and will   have   a   lifetime   love   of   the   Cuban   people   after   our   first   trip   to   the   island   nation.         I   am   sure   we   will   return   to Cuba, probably the eastern half of the country when we get the chance. We   expect   under   the   changing   rules,   a   cruise   ship   or   an   escorted   tour   will   be   the   easiest   way   going   forward   under the Trump   administration   to   see   Cuba.      Many   of   the   ships   do   an   overnight   so   you   can   do   a   people   to   people   tour   but also   explore   Havana   on   your   own   accord.      We   have   space   leaving   Tampa   and   Miami   right   now   on   cruise   ships   and we   can   even   do   last   minute   as   you   purchase   your   Cuban   visa   on   the   ship.      We   will   publish   the   rules   when   they   are released and search for the legal ways to assist clients travel. 
Postscript On   August   1,   the   Party   Congress   in   Cuba   issued   a   notice   in   the   Granma   Newspaper,   that   they   were   halting   the issuance   of   new   business   licenses   for   any   type   of   private   business.         All   existing   licenses   are   valid   that   have   been issued   already   and   they   were   clear   they   did   not   want   to   interrupt   their   existing   businesses.      The   Government   has announced   that   they   had   no   intention   of   moving   back   to   the   day   when   the   government   controlled   all   business   but they   needed   a   hard   stop   to   be   able   to   get   all   the   existing   businesses   into   order   and   make   it   all   work.      They   have expressed   problems   with   a   mostly   cash   economy,   avoidance   of   the   50%   income   taxes,   competition   with   state businesses/supply   chain   and   the   growing   market   power   of   small   businesses   including   all   the   paladars   and   casa particulars.      In   our   opinion,   we   were   surprised   how   much   entrepreneurial   activity   was   going   on   the   apparent success of small business people in Havana. I   think   that   the   United   States   is   taking   a   step   back   by   ending   independent   “people   to   people”   tourism   and   trying   to sanction   the   government   (military)   run   tourism   businesses.      We   know   that   tourism   does   business   with   military controlled   businesses   in   places   like   Egypt,   China,   Vietnam   and   Myanmar   so   why   not   Cuba?      The   uncertainty   around the   new   Executive   Order   has   slowed   US   tourism.      In   my   opinion,   it   has   given   the   Cuban   government   a   chance   to slow   down   the   systemic   evolution   to   allowing   certain   kinds   of   private   businesses,   that   is   still   a   subject   for   discussion amongst   the   party   members.      For   those   in   the   USA   that   want   make   change   in   Cuba,   bring   down   the   embargo   and   let the   flood   of   US   tourists   bring   that   change   from   within.      It   has   already   put   pressure   on   the   system,   since   the   loosening of   regulations   and   the   extra   tourists   that   were   starting   to   arrive   from   the   USA   in   greater   numbers   which   would continue   to   increase   the   pressure   to   provide   quality   services   in   the   tourism   sector.      Tightening   a   55   year   old   failed embargo   will   only   slow   the   positive   changes   we   had   seen   on   the   ground   in   Havana   in   spite   of   the   slow   pace   of change on behalf of the Cuban government.