this worldwide pandemic.
Montreux, Switzerland
We are departing Lyon, France and changing trains in Geneva, Switzerland. We are staying
tonight at the Fairmont Montreux Palace. I am feeling 100% so we took an Italian Antipasto and
a good French bottle of wine on the train. I went to the boulangerie in Lyon so we also have a
.90e baguette (about $1.05) and a couple of cannoli’s from the Italian stall at the market.
Geneva to Montreux is only about 1.5 hours by inter-city train so we break out the picnic
immediately upon leaving Geneva. It is ok to travel with a beer or a bottle of wine on a
European train so we usually do a picnic. We have nice Mercedes taxi guy outside the train
station and we know we are in the high rent district as a 5 minute taxi ride is 18e on the meter.
We had requested no bathtub at the Palace and there was a mixup between our room and hers so
the receptionist gets on the phone with reservations and Mom is quickly upgraded to a suite. I
had ordered the lakeview for her and we just did a city view as our rooms run $350 to $414 even
with my tour company’s contracted price that was a little better than the website. As my Mom is
81 independent travel tires her out and she has been doing afternoon naps so we leave her and
head to our room. I realize when we get there that the reservationist just switched the room
requests as we have a shower on the cityview room and we have a corner with a patio that can
also see the lake.
Montreux is a delightful little Swiss lake town. This is the location of the famous jazz festival
for 40 years. Outside the hotel are busts of Ray Charles, BB King, Santana, Ella and Aretha in
the park all signed by the artists. The convention center is the Miles Davis convention center.
The entire town revolves around the lakefront. We walk a mile or
so from the hotel on the main street which has great shopping.
After the pandemic, we have found many bargains in Europe as
some of the stores are clearing inventory and raising cash. We
cross over to the lakefront which has a wide sidewalk and a ton of
local artwork everywhere by the lake. We are getting back to the
hotel and examine the bar menu which is nothing special. The
main restaurant is closed as the hotel had a low house count and it
is off season. This is a good place to speak about how Covid has
affected tourism. As most destinations are getting by with local tourism they have modified
hours that things are open and they have also only opened part of the facilities as nobody is full.
The tradeoff is you are touring Europe without the crowds so be flexible and pleasant if you
choose to go overseas. I joked with my Avalon rep. before I departed that we were taking
patience, humility and 5 kinds of masks. I am serious about the masks as we have cloth masks,
KN95s and I even have my face buffs for the outside activity days or walking the city as they go
on and come off easily. Most indoor situations will require a facemask in Europe so we suspect
that is why we were able to do 16 days in Europe without getting a breakthrough which are more
prevalent with the high case counts in the USA.
We have had enough butter, crème fresh and cream after traveling France for 10 days. It is
raining so we do not want to go far and the concierge suggests a local family style Italian that is
just behind the hotel. Most high end hotel concierges are worth their weight
in gold and this one made a good suggestion. I walk out back to scope out
how far and stop in to make a reservation. I ask the owner lady English?
She says no and is looking about as her husband and Son have not arrived
but they obviously are the English speakers in the house. I ask Italiano? Si
si is the response so we do business in Italian as I can get around a restaurant
transaction in that language as we have spent a lot of time in Italy and also
visited Gina’s family in Sicily. I notice over her shoulder there is a
vegetable/seafood antipasto bar so I make note and want at least a portion to
share. After 14 days on the road nobody knows what to eat as you are
always a little mixed up by that stage of the trip. We have two portions of
the antipasto bar to share, an order of carbonara and one order of fresh
grilled sole. The owner is honest that two entrees to share is probably
enough and I ask for a wine list but he shows me his vino della casa card as
he is very proud of his own labeled wines. This is a guy that wants to please people, not just
make money so we order a bottle of the vino della casa and the red is wonderful. The meal was
fantastic. The caribonara which is pasta with pancetta, a fresh raw egg that is cooked by the hot
pasta and pecorino cheese. Gina’s dad’s family called it literally bacon and eggs pasta. The
verdura/seafood antipasto does not disappoint and the owner makes sure we have three of
everything including shrimp, grilled zucchini, roasted yellow and red peppers, octopus, squid,
olive loaf, olives preserved with pepperoncini and a few more Italian delicacies. The sole was
the highlight of the meal. Sole is a cousin of a flounder. My paternal grandmother said if you
can ever eat fresh sole make sure you order it and she was right. The owner brings about a half a
kilo grilled whole fish to the table and disassembles the fish before your eyes into four fillets.
He puts a little dish of pesto sauce on the plate and dribbles a little on top of the fish. Simple is
best in Italian cooking so we suspect only sea salt on the fish and it is fantastic.
Golden Pass Railroad - Montreux to Interlaken Switzerland
We are up early but everybody had 8 or 9 hours sleep last night so we are renewed. This
morning I have scheduled the first leg on the 1901 Belle Epoch train from Montreux to
Zweisimmen Switzerland. We are in awe as we get on the train as it has all been refurbished in
1901 style with ornate carved wood, brass and huge seats that look like antique living room
chairs. The Golden Pass is a series of trains that snake over mountain passes and into Swiss
valleys and at each turn the scenery is beautiful. As you climb out of the town of Montreux, you
immediately put on altitude with mountains, green valleys, cows for cheese production and
beautiful Swiss towns at every turn. The first leg is about two hours and they only run the Belle
Epoch train once or twice a day. The run is also serviced by regular trains too. We don’t think
we can make a 5 minute connection with Mom so we opt to stop in Zweisimmen for lunch at the
post hotel. It is a simple place run by older Swiss German gentlemen that has something for
everyone. We look at the menu which is in German so we
navigate as far as the wood fired pizza and a couple of portions
from the salad bar. I can’t read the other entrees but on my trip
to the bathroom I see others have ordered a beautiful sauerbraten
with spaetzel and veggies so I curse myself for not asking about
today’s special. It looked like the only game in town close to the
train station that had some bad Google reviews but we are very
satisfied. We suspect since everything is expensive in
Switzerland all the time that the 3 old guys may have trouble
with the crowds in the summertime but service and food were
good today.
We are right on time for the second train of our journey starting
in Zweisimmen and ending in Interlaken, Switzerland. We can’t
find a cab so we walk to the hotel and it is only about 10 minutes
even at Mom’s slow pace. We are staying at the Hotel Interlaken
which is a good value for the money at about $338 US for two
rooms including a good breakfast. Not as fancy as the Fairmont
last night, with smaller rooms; but very acceptable and very clean. Mom is up for the afternoon
nap so Gina and I head out to the funicular to go up to Harder Kulm which is the highest point in
Interlaken and you can see both lakes that make up the name as the town is between two giant
lakes. We are glad we did not miss this as the view is spectacular and we catch the last sun rays
of the day for pictures. It is cold on top of the mountain so we slip into the lodge for a happy
hour glass of wine as a light misty rainfall begins to fall. The funicular is an engineering marvel
so we enjoy the ride as much as the view.
On day 15, we are really not sure about what to eat but when checking menus on the internet we
see that the Hisu Beer Hall in town has Schnitzel night so we head out in a cab. This was a nice
change of pace to have some bar food and
a really good deal. On Wednesdays, you
get a choice of five or six different kinds
of schnitzel including a chicken and
veggie choice. We opt for traditional pork
schnitzel with mushroom gravy. It comes
with a huge salad, fries and a free beer of
the night from the brewery they operate
next door. I am not usually a fan of IPAs
but it was a pale ale our night which was
actually pretty good. Mom decided to
have a steak sandwich and that was also a
winner with fresh salad and fresh peppers
and onions along with a nice piece of
steak. The place was friendly with piped
in music so we enjoyed ourselves in Interlaken.
Golden Pass Railroad - Interlaken to Lucern Switzerland
The next day we take the last leg of the Golden Pass journey which is as beautiful as the first.
We all agree that although the 2nd leg was beautiful that the first and last legs of this three train
journey are spectacular. This train starts out along one of the large lakes that make up Interlaken
but quickly transitions to mountain passes with really great views. Small lakes dot the scenery
as do small Swiss villages and as always with all the cheese production lots of cows and quite a
few sheep. We have reservations for the hotel Alpina which is a 3 star that is a short walk from
the station. The hotel has a sign that you check in at the Hotel Monopol next door so we head
into the lobby. I ask to make sure we have the special request for a shower instead of a tub and
the receptionist has to work the rooms as nobody transferred the request to the other hotel. After
a while, she upgrades us to Monopol and puts us in two suites to get Mom a shower. Monopol
was a grand hotel 40 or 50 years ago but good value for the money and still in pretty good shape
which is classified as a 4 star in the Swiss system.
We head out to find something for lunch while Mom does her Covid cleaning. We find a local
wine shop and have a nice conversation with the owner. If you have read any of my blogs
before you know I am intrigued with a blending grape called Cabernet Franc. I ask him if he has
anything with that that would run 20chf or 25chf and he replies no, not here in Switzerland but
he has one from a local vintner further south near the Italian border. It is 80% Cab Franc and
20% Merlot, aged in steel tanks and the guy only makes one barrel or so per year (250 or 500
bottles) but its 60chf. We take one for Christmas dinner and get another Merlot from the same
vintner that was only 19chf and also wonderful. He reminds us to uncork the Christmas bottle
about 5 hours before serving. After that we hit the grocery next door for some premade
sandwiches and chips that are pretty good. We are getting to the end of the trip so I get two
eclair like bon bons covered in chocolate as I know we will skip dessert for a couple of weeks
after this trip so I might as well get it while
I can and Mom loves chocolate. As
expected it is afternoon nap time as Mom
was already in Lucerne on a bus tour in a
past life.
We head to the lakefront to see if we can
do some kind of one hour tour. The lady
suggests we take the round trip to
Burgenstock which gives us a panoramic
view of the lake and the small
communities that dot Lake Lucerne. After
the boat tour, the Lucerne guide the hotel
gave us has a walking tour that looks like
about an hour. My Mom’s patron saint is
my cousin Linda. My Mom was her mentor as they were both business women in the sales
field. I stop at the Basilica which is closed and stand outside to say a prayer and thank her for
her help with getting Mom back to Europe at 81 in the waning days of a pandemic. We have had
good weather most of the way, no sickness even though Covid is still a factor, I scratched a
rental car and did not get charged, we won in Monte Carlo and ate well so I never tempt the
Gods or Angels, I always say my thanks when it is due.
The walking tour is nice and ends with the pedestrian shopping street. At the end we duck into a
wine bar (are you getting the theme when we are in Europe as we have drank crap for a year
with limited income?). We sit next to an older man that speaks good English and he sparks up a
conversation about the new Swiss Covid Pass that he hates. He is from another town near
Austria but comes to Lucerne all the time as he thinks it is the best town in the world. We have a
nice conversation and he agrees with my point about the pass allowing us to get back to business
and a lot of people are dying. It seems the Covid Passport has allowed the French to go from
less than 50% vaccination to about 85% vaccination as the kids get tired of tests just to go out to
bars and restaurants. His name is Holly and he has a fight jacket with Holly on the back so I am
guessing maybe used to be a boxer. I ask if he wants another glass of wine and he says two are
my limit each evening but he pulls out a wad of chf, motions to the girl to pay my tab too and we
say our pleasantries. He has already said Lucerne has great restaurants so I ask for a
recommendation as he is leaving. He asks where I am staying and suggests the Bistro du
Theatre which is about 4 minute walk from my hotel. He was right it was a casual local bistro
with great black muscles as a specialty plus we all had something we liked for the last meal in
Europe. When I call for a reservation, the lady insists we need proof of vaccination and we see
why as the local police are running checks of the stores and restaurants on that block to enforce
the new vaccine passport requirement. The barber shop has everybody out in the street with the
officers as apparently they were ignoring the rules that went into effect about 20 days ago.
Lucerne to Zurich Fluhagen (Zurich Airport)
We have been riding first class all the way on the trains. It is not that much more expensive on
short train rides ($10 to $20 per ride per person) and we figured the first class trains will be less
crowded and they are. I made a mistake and cut a second class supersaver ticket after many tries
at getting the system to cut this many tickets in one round as the EU train systems go up and
down in Rail Europe. I think this was my only mistake of the trip and I was tired so I did not
reexamine the ticket until we got on board and unpacked. The young conductor took pity on us
traveling with Mom and all our luggage to the airport but said he could not upgrade the
supersaver tickets I cut which were use them or lose them. He fiddled with his phone for a
while and said go ahead and buy another full fare ticket from Zurich HB to the airport for about
$45e/three and we’ll call it a day. I suspect he had an empty train car in first class and compared
the first class to second class supersaver plus he was getting off at Zurich HB so I needed the
right ticket from downtown to the airport if another conductor was taking over when he got off.
The Swiss are an excellent group of people and an absolutely beautiful country. I suggest you
travel Switzerland at least once in your life. The trains run on time, the hotels are clean, the food
is varied and good plus the scenery is excellent. We are trying to solve global warming with
electric cars, etc. Europeans while they have cars in some places also have an excellent train
system so we arrived Zurich Airport on a train platform under the airport and simply took the
elevator upstairs. Swissair runs an excellent airline and we had a preflight check with the US
CPB representative that works for Swissair who checked all our Covid documentation including
test results and forms. We were given a wheelchair to use with Mom and we chose the self-
serve option as we were early so we could eat, drink coffee and duty free shop a little on the way
to the plane. Mom wanted some Chanel that was made in France so we made that stop and off
we went on Swissair to Miami.
Conclusion
Overall, we had a great trip. It was good to get on the road again after the pandemic shutdown.
We were lucky to hit a period between covid spikes and we were careful with our mitigation
(mask wearing, outdoor restaurants, traveling on a fully vaccinated ship, nonstop airplanes to
vaccinated destinations, etc.). Southern France was very pretty but I am thinking Cote de Azur
is a once in a lifetime destination. I may head back to Provence at some point in my life as the
towns along the Rhone were beautiful and we were only in each place one day. Gina and I both
concluded that we will return to Switzerland in the summer maybe for an extended stay at some
point in time. Monaco was a better day than I expected and I would like to get back to
Montreux at some point for the Jazz Festival.
Avalon Waterways river cruises is owned by the Globus Family of Brands. I think they are
doing as good a job as any of the companies with their river cruise product. It is our second time
on Avalon Waterways and our first time in a suite. The suite was very well designed and pulling
the space into the room instead of adding balconies was in my opinion a brilliant move as there
are times when you pop the door open but might not spend time on the balcony. The Avalon
Waterways staff was wonderful with attentive service and the food was very good. The fact that
you have multiple tour options at each stop make this more of a multi-generational product than
other river cruise lines. Avalon Waterways offers 3 kinds of shore excursions and many cities
had multiple (free) included choices. They offer Active, which were very active in our opinion.
It made the week go quick as we had prepaid excursions to ride bikes and tour the reserve, kayak
the Gorge and ride the rail bikes through the mountains. Discovery which are geared towards
older people who want to learn something or do something different and classic are the typical
city (mostly walking) tour with a guide and headsets. River cruising in general is nice as you are
in a different city on each day and it is like a bus tour without the packing and unpacking
required to switch hotels every day or two.
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French Riviera, River Cruising in Provence and The Golden Pass Route
This is my first travel blog in about two years. This is the time of Covid-19 so you may
see some references to that if you are reading this blog years down the road as all travel
was closed from April 2020 until about February or March of 2021 during the pandemic
lock down.
Pre River Cruise Trip to the French Riviera
It feels good to be on the road again. We booked an Active and Discovery
Rhone River cruise in 2020 that got canceled so we have rebooked that
trip for September 2021 and I am writing this from an Avalon Waterways
riverboat called the Avalon Poetry 2. In a time of Covid 19, air service is
limited and our cruise starts near Marseille, France and ends up in Lyon,
France. With limited air service, slow phones due to the Delta variant
scare and no vacation for 2 years we decided to fly nonstop Miami to
Zurich, Switzerland. Plus the Swissair flights were vaccine required, or
Covid test required; so they were safer than flying domestically to Europe
via New York or Dulles.
Zurich Airport
Our flight arrived Zurich in the morning and we had an evening flight to Nice, France so we
caught a cab and headed out to a lovely Italian restaurant called Restaurante Romantica near the
Zurich airport. Zurich is an expensive city and the minimum cab ride from or to ZRH is about $35
so it made for an expensive but delightful afternoon under the tree in front of the restaurant they
had a beautiful outdoor patio. The girls had soup after the long travel day but I had a homemade
mushroom ravioli that was excellent.
Nice and Cagnes Sur Mer (Cote d’ Azur), France
We stayed one night in Nice and were glad we did the villa after experiencing Nice. Nice has
some very nice beach areas and an Old Port area that has character. As we got in late, we stayed at
the Holiday Inn Express near the airport. We could have taken the Tram but my 81 year old Mom
was pretty tired so we hailed a cab. We loaded
everything in the car and told the guy the
address and he started unloading our luggage
and kicked us out of the cab. They put the
baggage on the side of the taxi stand and after a
half an hour another guy from the back of the
line agreed to make the short run. This is
actually illegal according to taxi laws but most
of the taxi drivers are not French. Plus the
minimum fare applied again so another $35 taxi
ride for 10 minute run. In the morning we
agreed Gina and I could have trammed but not
with Mom after 36 hours on the road. I tend to
roll with the punches when traveling, so we got
to the hotel, which served us well as a sleep cheap and Mom bedded down. Gina and I headed out
for a walk to a restaurant we found on the internet called Island Café. It was food from
Madagascar and was very excellent and very cheap. At ten PM as we headed back we realized we
were in a less refined part of Nice, so it was at least an interesting walk.
We needed a France Pass Sanitaire on our phone to convert our vaccination card. This has still not
arrived as of the date of this blog but most places we were able to negotiate our CDC shot cards
with passports so-far. After check out, we drove the beach road in Nice. That area is very nice
with beaches that have small rocks rather than sand fronted by huge expensive apartments
overlooking the water. Traffic is busy in Nice so I am eager to get out of as we rented a larger
vehicle and they gave us a Jeep which is definitely too big for European cities. I only get cars on a
limited basis in Europe where necessary but we were three seniors with luggage so it was
necessary in this situation. After a short tour of the beach in Nice, we headed to Le Bayside in
Cagnes Sur Mer. This was also a great stop as it was right on a small beach with a paid parking lot
nearby. Our waitress was delightful and the restaurant was 3rd or 4th generation Nice cuisine.
They had fresh clams so it was 3 vongole pasta and a bottle of wine. The waitress spoke great
English and food was fantastic. I don’t do a lot of Air BnBs but we had a villa for three nights that
indicated we could possibly do a luggage drop. I called the “concierge” but did not get a response
or a return phone call so we decided on plan B, Bayside Restaurant and it was a very good choice
for a couple of hours by the beach.
We got Mom to the villa and went down to the grocery store in Cagnes Sur Mer at the bottom of
the hill. A French grocery store is an experience that everyone should do once in their life. We
planned for breakfast and a salad and cheese plate dinner after our long afternoon beach lunch.
Southern France has wonderful fruits and vegetables plus you have an entire fromagerie in a
French grocery store. We bought a 59 cent baguette and had a nice soup, cheese and pastry dinner.
Bottles of great wine are about $6 to $14 and you can even get Cru Bourgeois from about $18 and
Gran Cru’s starting at $25. We spent a lot of time on the porch overlooking the Cote d Azur.
St. Paul de Vence, France
We stayed at an Airbnb called Villa Mimosa which was just below the hill town of St. Paul de
Vence near Nice. It was a beautiful view and really filled the bill as a 2 BR 2 bath villa with a
washing machine. That meant we only needed to plan for about 10 or 11 days of clothes for a 16
day trip. St. Paul de Vence is a touristy hill town that was home to both Marc Chagall and Matisse
at one point in time. It had a map online so we even could get a walking path around the hill town
so Mom could go up with us. We went up and did some shopping and stopped back at the villa for
a late lunch of grocery store quiche with a glass of wine. We headed into Antibes to maybe walk
around and try to get a table at a well rated cheap seafood shack. Unfortunately Antibes was very,
very full of local tourists and the restaurant had zero reservations available. The streets had a flea
market attitude and we could not find any street parking at all. We just turned around and headed
back up to the villa with a pretty good pizza from a roadside food truck and made a salad from the
fridge overlooking the Mediterranean.
Monaco (Casino De Monte Carlo)
We had asked Mom in 2019 what she wanted to do for her 80th as we had planned on Europe and
she asked about Monte Carlo Casino as she had one trip with her second husband cancelled in the
80s. Gina and I had always wanted to do Southern France so we planned this for 2020 but
postponed to 2021 as did everyone with the Covid-19 pandemic. We did a late morning in the
villa and headed towards Monaco (Monte Carlo) about noon. A cold front came through as we
were leaving the villa so we got heavy rain on the trip down the
highway. We avoided the original plan to do the upper Corniche
but did make a stop to see Eze from the road. The rain stopped
and the Mistral winds started blowing from the north so we could
feel the temperature dropping by the hour. After a quick stop to
photograph the hill town of Eze we headed on to Monte Carlo and
just drove around initially. The wealth in Monaco is not really
believable with million dollar yachts and cars dotting the
landscape. We were very impressed with Monaco as the Prince
has a very hospitable culture which invites tourists in to spend
money and go to the casino. The table games are a minimum $25 bet so we played video
blackjack and slots. Casino de Monte Carlo has a James Bond theme as it was featured in the
movie series. The casino charges 17e admission but gives you 10e free play that got inhaled in the
video blackjack machine but I got luckier with my second 20e. Mom was having fun at the slots
and was up a little bit so I went to the slot machine featuring the Sean Connery Bond as he was
always my favorite Bond. After about an hour and a half we were all up and Gina was watching
the piano player so we cashed out our winnings and hit the lower Corniche towards Nice. We
stopped at the Old Port of Nice on the way home and found a really nice seafood restaurant named
the Marlin. I think this was the best seafood of the trip but should be at the Old Port of Nice. My
Mom had a fantastic piece of fresh black sea bass, Gina had tiny moules and frites (black mussels
and French fries) plus I had the bouillabaisse with a mixture of fresh seafood. After a very long
day, we headed back up to the villa to finish off the grocery store desserts.
Aix en Provence, France (with walk in Cannes and a lunch stop in Sicily)
We pulled out about 10:30 as Aix en Provence our next overnight stop was about 1.5 hours
driving. We stopped and drove the beach in Cannes down to the waterfront port and we broke for
a walk along the sea. We had a nav system in the car so I got on the highway and asked it for an
interim stop for gasoline. It stupidly sent us back around 15 miles to the last exit we passed so I
was cursing Siri as we stopped for gas. It was about 1:30 and you have to eat by 2P or restaurants
start closing in France so we programmed the nav system for Italian Restaurants and one was just
around the corner. It was a take-out place with a few tables outside on a beautiful day with a car
park so we cheered and locked the bags in view to go inside. The lady did not have a French
accent and my French stinks so I asked Italiano? She replied no Siciliano to which I asked dove?
(Where are you from?) and she replied Palermo. I turned around and saw a painting of Cefalu
which is Gina’s Grandfather’s home town so I went outside and told Gina to come inside from the
patio. Now Cefalu is in the region of Palermo so I introduced Gina my Cefalutano wife and
everybody did the happy dance. We ordered way too much food and ate most of it. We had the
best Sicilian arancini (rice balls) I have had since Palermo with her cousin, one portion of pasta
alforno, a portion of lasagna and a mini calzoni with lemon soda. It seems the owner’s family is
not only from Cefalu but her grandfather was also from Lascari where Gina’s grandfather is from.
They compared surnames and decided they were not related as the lady knew some of Gina’s
cousins. We all did air kisses because of covid and off we went very full of great Sicilian food.
I picked Aix en Provence as it was about 30 minutes to the Marseille airport and Marseille being
France’s second largest city and a seaport does not have the best reputation for safety plus the
Marseille airport is about 20 minutes from Marseille. We were not disappointed with Aix en
Provence. Mom is 81 so she needed to rest after a full
day on the road. Gina and I took the opportunity to
walk in the footsteps of Paul Cezanne as we had seen
a Cezanne and Pissaro exhibition in Paris on an earlier
trip. We took the car out to Carrieres de Bibemus
which is a huge nature park. It was about an hour and
a half before sunset so we understood why Cezanne
loved this place. The park does not have very much
parking and miles of no parking signs, but we were
there late in the day in the off-season after Covid so it
was easy. We headed out on a hiking path and a
young French jogger helped us with the trail map so
we could quickly get some viewpoints onto Sainte-
Victoire Mountain. We were rewarded with a
perfectly clear sunset on Cezanne’s favorite subject. In fact, it was yellow on the way out but we
found Sainte-Victoire had turned pink on the return hike to the car. We hit the parking lot at dusk
and returned to the Cezanne Boutique hotel in Aix as the natives call it.
Mom was ready for bed after all the food at lunch but we needed a light bite. We showered and
headed to the main square which was about 3 blocks from the hotel. Aix en Provence is a pretty
hip town with multiple colleges and by 9p the place was hopping. We tried the restaurant Cezanne
Boutique hotel staff had suggested but our French Pass Sanitaires had still not been issued and the
assistant manager was afraid to let us in with the shot cards as her manager was off for the
evening, so we kept going. We picked a bar that served tapas and settled in with a good bottle of
Cotes du Rhone and some appetizers. The manager told us that as long as we had the shot card we
were welcome. I applauded him as being smarter than Macron and we took a table on the patio.
As the bar scene started to fill up, we realized we had chosen an LGBTQ bar but the couples were
very friendly and our waiter spoke pretty good English that he said he learned from playing video
games and the tapas was excellent, so all was good. Later we made our way around the bar scene
and stopped for a Guinness for me and a Kilkenny Red for Gina at a nice Irish Pub. In a college
town in Europe the people watching is amazing. Cezanne Boutique Hotel had a killer breakfast
included with the room rate with everything you could think of on a European continental
breakfast so we loaded the jeep thankfully for the last time and headed to the airport to meet the
Avalon representative.
Avalon Waterways Active and Discovery Cruise on the Rhone on the Poetry II
We bought the prepaid transfer from Avalon Waterways to the Poetry II. We waited by arrivals
and the representative showed up right on time. She called a very nice taxi man with a Mercedes
van and off we went to Port St. Louis. We could have hailed a cab but it would have cost more
and we would have had to find the boat. Book with a travel agent and you get secrets like that for
FREE. We were surprised it was
about an hour to Port St. Louis
which is where the Rhone River
meets the Mediterranean. We
loaded in and had a great evening
meal as Avalon Waterways offers
flexible dining times. When you
consider that most shore
excursions are included, wine
and beer with dinner and lunch
are included (I have been
drinking Kronenborg on tap all
week plus good French wines)
these are more expensive than ocean cruising but include a LOT more. We stopped worrying
about the Pass Sanitaire’s arriving as we were in the protected river cruise/escorted tour bubble
and we were eating mostly on the ship. This is an Avalon Waterways Active and Discovery River
Cruise on the Rhone so the route is a little shorter to allow more time for the Activities but we are
traveling as two very active 60 year olds and an 82 year old so we have different activities planned
for both age groups in most places.
Port Saint Louis/Camargue Nature Preserve
The first stop on the Rhone Active and Discovery River Cruise is Port St. Louis which is a very
small working seaport near the mouth of the Rhone on the Mediterranean. We walked around
town in about 15 minutes. The purpose of this stop is the Camargue Nature Preserve where they
raise White Horses, have sea salt ponds and raise bulls for bullfighting. We chose a bicycle ride as
the active optional tour the next day. The bikes were lined up in a parking lot near the ship after
breakfast. The guide was very good and pointed to small, medium and large Trek bikes so with a
short instruction we loaded up for our first bike ride in 30 years. The guide announced that it was
45 kilometers for the day which is about 25 miles. We joked about tour de France as we rode with
the instructor on the first 12 miles to the Nature Preserve we were flying with a tail wind. This is
actually a classic TDF tactical mistake as we ended up at the back of the Peloton since we are in
our 60s all the way home peddling into the wind, but the stragglers encouraged each other to keep
going to avoid the chase van. We were proud of ourselves as we left with a group of 22 and 7 or 9
were in the van by the way home, one minor crash of a fellow rider but our “team” managed to
make it all the way back to the ship. After lunch we set sail for a 3 hour sail to Arles. On Avalon
Waterways, I am in a basic suite room which is worth the upgrade as the glass pocket doors open
up and I am writing this blog with the Southern France breeze in my face on a sunny 80 degree
day.
Arles
Today was a walking tour of Arles and we met a retired matador at the
amphitheater. Sometimes expectations can be misleading when you
read about a tour and then actually take it. The town of Arles was
absolutely fantastic so we understand why Van Gogh loved it towards
the end of life. Gina and I did some shopping in the afternoon after the
tour and very much enjoyed that also.
The tour started with a presentation including questions and answers by
Juan Leal who was a retired bullfighter from a family of bullfighters.
Avalon waterways had an excellent English-speaking guide that
translated for us. The bullfighter explained all about the sport and we
stopped later at his restaurant to see the shrine to his family’s
bullfighting heritage on the walls. He explained that this is a big
money sport and his nephew was one of the five top bullfighters in the
world today. They traveled France, Spain and even South America.
With a bullfight the bull is sold to the promoter as he is probably not coming home but sometimes
he has such a heart that the crowd starts cheering for a pardon. A top bull can fetch 15,000 euros
and a bullfighter can be paid as much
as 125,000 euros. One lady asked
when he decided to quit. He said it
was the day the bull had him by the
pants and was beating him to death.
It took them 10 or 15 minutes to get
him out of the ring and away from
the bull. Gina and I went back into
Arles and had our first major
shopping trip in 2 years so we
shopped like drunken sailors. I
bought a buffalo laptop bag and she
got a great Italian dress for 20e at a
side street store. That night was a
musical treat on the boat as 3
musicians a a female singer that had retired from from the Gypsy Kings were the entertainment.
They are from the Camargue area and were playing on the riverboat to get through the pandemic.
Avignon
We did two overnights in Avignon. I had a lovely afternoon writing this blog from my suite on the
Avalon Waterways Poetry II. The entire glass wall folds up into pocket doors and it is a lovely day
on the Rhone River. In Avignon, we have a ship excursion to the French Pope’s Palace and Les
Halles Market. Our guide was very good and Avignon and knew all the history of the French
Pope. After we walked through the city and he pointed out some points of interest he purchased
all our tickets for the French Pope’s Palace. The highlight of this guide by the name of Manu was
a point where he stopped in the main chapel and sang in Latin to show us the acoustics. After the
Pope’s Palace we walked to Les Halles Market Avignon for a visit but the tour got changed as we
were supposed to have shopping with a picnic in the park near the market but everything is
adjusted a little for Covid as the authorities have removed the picnic tables from the park outside
the market. The tour director on the ship did the shopping and only our walking tour group had an
aperitif from the market before lunch. We went back to the market for spices but they were
closing but we did get half a pound of dried porcinis as the kitchen cabinet is getting empty. We
got hooked on them in Italy and they are very expensive in the USA including the shipping.
Those local guides are from the city that you stop in so they are also a good resource if you have
questions about your free time. We wanted to get Mom off the ship for a dinner to see a little of
Avignon so he assisted me with an easy place to have the driver drop and pick me up and also
which of the restaurants were non-touristy. He stopped an whispered a tip about European
restaurants when he pointed to a menu that had all of the choices including Italian, French and
even some American dishes catering to tourists. He said if a French menu has more than 10
choices it is not a good restaurant as they are not working with fresh ingredients. This is a good
point to talk about European Prix Fix menus. For lunch you can usually get 3 courses for between
15e and 20e depending on the region and most restaurants have a little board at the entrance
showing what today’s choices are. That evening we got a cab and went back to the clock square
with Mom. The taxi we called never showed up but a gypsy taxi stopped and asked if we were
going to the restaurant. We overpaid a little bit but I still tipped him and asked him if he wanted to
make the return trip which he eagerly did. He was a French African or French Caribbean guy who
spoke impeccable English. Taxis are always a problem so if you can find a guy who is friendly
pay a little extra. Also taxi’s although expensive can sometimes solve a particular problem or save
a bunch of time over public transport so use them when necessary.
Viviers
We met Mom for 9A breakfast as we are daytime sailing this
morning through the largest lock on the Rhone Lock Bollene.
This is a hydro electric project that took the boat up 76 feet in
elevation. The project has nuclear, wind turbines and hydro
electric so it looks like it produces most of the electricity for
the region. The locks are always an interesting part of these
river cruises as it is amazing watching the captain manipulate
the ship from the outside joystick as there is only inches to
spare. After lunch we loaded up in a motorcoach in Viviers to
kayak the Gorges de l’Ardeche which is Europe’s Grand
Canyon on a smaller scale. The buffet breakast and lunches
were superb. Evenings in the dining room always has a choice of nightly entrees along with some
standard choices, soup, appetizer or salad and dessert. Lunch is served in the restaurant, in the
lounge and also on some days there is a bar b que on the top deck.
This particular day there was a bar b que on the top deck but Mom was not getting up there with
the steep stairs. One of the waiters offers to bring us back a sausage and some grilled salmon
which were both very good. After lunch, we are loaded up for a one hour bus ride to the Gorges
de l’Ardeche. Mom is heading to the perfume farm and factory on a Discovery tour which she
said was also very interesting. When we arrive at the Gorges de l’Ardeche, the guide mentions
casually that the river is running high. To which, I ask are these class one and two but I am told
that today they are class 2 and 3. My wife looks at me as I grimace a little in reaction to that
answer. When we are on the river I explain we should be ok as experienced ocean kayakers as I
have run rapids as a kid in the Boy Scouts, but the guide should have called the boat to allow other
inexperienced kayakers to cancel the trip, if conditions were challenging. We all got pretty wet on
the run but we all did ok with the rapids until the last set when we one boat overturned and
another ended up on the rocks. It was the last rapid of the day, so we held at the top to allow them
to get people out of the water and we actually listened to the guide so we picked a line which
worked out good to the bottom. After that we passed through the highest arch on a freshwater
river in Europe. It was a very pretty day and we had good weather. We skipped the night-time
ghost tour in Viviers as none of us is interested in the paranormal and a light rain started to fall.
We set sail in the evening from Viviers so the pocket doors were open until we fell asleep and we
were docked when we got up in the morning. Note there are times when you cannot use the doors
if you are double docked as you are looking into somebody’s room. This happened 2 or 3 nights
on a 7 night trip and we picked a suite across the hall from Mom’s so we had a 50/50 shot at an
open view if we got together. The Avalon Waterways rooms are spacious enough that you can
entertain somebody or another couple especially of you open the French balcony as you have a
Loveseat and another chair.
Tournan/Tain l’ Hermitage
We started the morning docked in Tournon which is paired with Tain l’ Hermitage across the river.
Mom is going to the chocolate factory to make her own chocolate bar and we are heading on a rail
bike to do a descent of the Gorges du Doux. This was one of the neatest attractions we had seen
in a while and believe me we have done everything in a lifetime in this business. We started with
an old diesel locomotive that chugged up the mountain about 8 kilometers. The rail tracks
followed a deep gorge and were right on the edge. When we got to our destination the engineer
and guide unchained some little race cars that were pedal driven and set on a siding of the
railroad. We all loaded up and one by one pedaled out of the station towards the bottom of the
hill. They asked us all to stay at least 50 meters apart which at times required using the breaks
with the steepness of the hill. You could look out over the edge but we were never in any danger
as we were attached to the rails. We hit a couple of flat spots and the cars were 350 pounds so the
pedaling was a little tough in those flat spots. Before we knew it, we were down at the bottom and
we really thought this was one of the best attractions on this river cruise. The guide asked the
group did we want to tour Tain l’ Hermatige and the famous pedestrian bridge between the cities
but the group voted for a stop at the chocolate factory store on the way home. We ran into Mom
at the chocolate store so she walked the quarter mile home with us to the ship. It is amazing as
quarantine/lockdown took a toll on the older people as Mom had entropied but seemed to blossom
on the trip and was walking longer distances by the time we got back to Zurich.
We sailed for Lyon after lunch so I was able to sit in my Avalon Poetry II Suite to write this blog
along the river. We enjoyed the sailing days along the river as it was about 70 on this portion of
the trip and it is interesting to see all the different types of boat traffic along the river. As we
neared Lyon, a light rain began to fall so we canceled our night tour of Lyon as I seemed to be
getting a cold from the 3 hours of wet clothes on the Gorges de L Ardeche and Mom did not want
to risk the rain so we all turned in early.
Lyon
When we get to Lyon, I definitely had cold symptoms. We are traveling with an emergency kit
including a thermometer and an oximeter, so all was normal. As this is a breakthrough indication
of Covid we were all freaked that the trip would end with ten days of Covid quarantine in Lyon.
We were already scheduled for an onboard covid test we all did the happy dance when the Covid
test results came back negative. Most of the tour companies and river cruises are doing the covid
testing as part of the deal. Same as many of the all-inclusives in the Caribbean to comply with US
law about negative test for arrival at US ports of entry. I think the requirement is stupid as we are
all required to be vaccinated to enter most European countries at the point and we are returning to
the USA where covid at this point is much worse than Europe.
It was raining very hard in the early morning so we canceled Mom’s French Chef tour and we
certainly were not doing the bites and highlights of Lyon in the rain. The rain was starting to let
up and the sun was poking out of the sky so Gina and I hit the ATM and did a little shopping with
our KN95s firmly in place. We opted for a taxi driver to take us up to the Basilica hill and on to
Les Halles de Paul Bocuse food market. After some shopping for the train lunch next day, we did
the butcher restaurant at the food hall market with skirt steak, a huge Lyonnaise salad and split a
burger 3 ways.
Angel one of the crew members was riding the same train as us so I offered a ride to the train
station. We shared a love of fishing and he was a casino host on Celebrity in a past life so we
agreed I would take him kayak fishing for redfish, if he ever came to Florida. There is a lot of
camaraderie in the travel industry as we were all unemployed together during lockdown. He
promised we would have a beer before we parted and he helped with Mom’s luggage at the train
station. He was heading as far as Geneva and then taking Valujet to Bulgaria. His mom was
cooking chicken soup and stuffed peppers, so the mood was positive as we got on the train.
Andrizito, the adventure guy; was leaving the next day and he was happy to be seeing his six year
old with his contract pay he promised her ice cream for the first time in a year. Once on the train
Angel pulled a couple of beers from his bag and we toasted to tourism as we were practically the
first American tourists to arrive in a reopened Europe. I haven’t been shaking hands during the
pandemic but I reached out today and he said “we both have a shot” and grabbed me for a bear
hug which I am guessing is a Bulgarian thing. We all got shots for free in the USA, but the first
thing he was doing with his pay was getting his Mom a shot when he returned to Bulgaria. He
was vaccinated first as he needed it to work. Wow, the pandemic story is mind blowing as we
begin to move about the world again!
Even though we paid the “suggested gratuities” the fact was not lost on us that these people from
poor countries are proud tourism workers and glad to be back to work. We were generous with
small individual tips to everybody that waited on us and we lived like Kings and Queens on the
Avalon Poetry II. It has always been my policy to leave a little something extra as you can afford
to tip, if you can afford to travel. Now more than ever as we emerge from this pandemic help the
small people that work in tourism as it has been rougher for them than those of us in the
industrialized world. The level of appreciation you will see for 1 or 2 Euros will amaze you.
Suggested gratuities for the whole team on Avalon are 12e per guest per day and 3e for the tour
director. We were leaving 1 or 2e for each waiter/bartender when they waited on us and another
2.5e per day for the housekeeper. Try my system the next time from day one and you will be
amazed how much personal service you get with a little extra tip, especially as we emerge from